How To

When living with young children or elderly folks, it can be difficult choosing a new shower.

If the answer is yes, then thermostatic showers may be a safer alternative for your home. Their internal valves ensure that hot and cold water is mixed together before exiting the shower head to provide a safe and pleasant showering experience. 

A thermostatic shower seems like a regular shower, but it has something very unique inside; a thermostatic valve. Thermostatic valves mix both hot and cold water together to a consistent predetermined temperature, preventing scalding and thermic shock.

To give you a clearer idea, let me take you on a journey to show you what thermostatic showers are, how they work, and how you can take care of them. 

What Is A Thermostatic Shower? 

 These thermostatic mixer showers are an excellent choice for families with young children or older relatives as they provide safety and convenience.  

How Does A Thermostatic Shower Work? 

Thermostatic showers store water at a high temperature before mixing it with cold water to a pre-set temperature, rather than having an internal heating system like electric showers do.

The valve also reacts instantly to changes in water temperature and immediately adjusts the mixed water to get it back to the pre-set temperature.

Thermostatic showers will also instantly shut down if the cold-water supply fails in order to avoid injury. It is these functions that make thermostatic showers stand out from others. 

Is a Thermostatic Shower Electric?  

Thermostatic showers are not electric as they rely on the mains water supply to function. A combination of water pressure and water temperature is what allows the shower to work.

Electric showers have their own heating element, so they use only cold water, whereas thermostatic showers use both hot and cold water.

Electric showers are an excellent choice for Ensuite bathrooms and shower rooms, and can be rather economical as their temperature is not affected by other water use in the home.  

Thermostatic Valve Problems  

While thermostatic showers seem high-tech, they can have problems like other showers. Common issues that are reported include intermittent hot and cold water or constant hot or cold water.

Sometimes water can drip from the shower head when the shower is not on and running. Another common issue is a reduced water flow rate during showers.

All of these issues are easily fixed with regular adjustments and maintenance. If you are having trouble with your thermostatic valve, consider contacting a professional for support. 

Further Reading: Best High Pressure Shower Heads

What are Thermostatic Shower Valves?  

As we briefly mentioned in the first paragraph, thermostatic shower valves mix hot and cold water from your supply together. This premixed water then comes out of the shower head and can sometimes be set to a predetermined temperature.

Thermostatic shower valves are often made of metals such as brass or chrome to increase their life span. These valves are what make the thermostatic showers function safely and seamlessly to give you the ultimate shower experience.  

Can You Repair a Thermostatic Shower Valve?  

Repairing a thermostatic shower valve is easy enough with the right tools. Perhaps the handle is jammed, or the water is not mixing to the correct temperature? Taking the handle apart and having a look at the valve may show you what the problem is.

Depending on the issue, you can even do it yourself without the expense of hiring a professional. 

However, some valves cannot be replaced, so please do proper maintenance to prevent a nasty shock. 

If you are unsure how to fix the valve, I would advise contacting a local professional for advice and conducting thorough research before attempting repairs yourself. 

How to Adjust a Thermostatic Shower Valve 

Is your thermostatic shower valve not quite working as it used to?  To adjust your thermostatic valve, you must follow these steps; 

1. Unscrew the handle or lever. Once removed, this will expose the grub screw.

2. Loosen the grub screw with an Allen Key. This will allow you to pull the handle off of the valve. 

3. Take off the brass temperature stop lug by removing the retaining screw on the end. 

4. Turn the flow control back on. If the water is too cold, turn the brass spindle anti-clockwise until it reaches your preferred temperature.

Turn the brass spindle clockwise if the shower is too hot. Once you are satisfied with the temperature, turn off the water flow with the handle and reassemble the parts. 

Also Read: How to Fit a Shower Pump

How to Clean a Thermostatic Shower Cartridge 

To clean a thermostatic shower cartridge, you will need a pair of channel lock pliers and some white vinegar. Once you are ready, complete the following steps; 

    1. Remove the handle and trim piece from the valve. 

    2. Using the channel lock pliers, unthread the cartridge and remove completely          from the valve body.

    3. Soak the entire cartridge in a bowl of white vinegar, ensuring it is completely submerged for one hour. 

4. While the cartridge is soaking, turn on your shower to flush the opening until the water runs clear. 

5. Once the hour is up, rinse the cartridge thoroughly with water. 


6.Reattach the valve, trim and handle.

How to Descale a Thermostatic Shower Valve  

To descale your thermostatic shower valve, simply remove it from the body and soak it in a white vinegar and water solution for at least half an hour before rinsing it off and reassembling the handle. A good ratio for this cleaning technique is one-part vinegar to one part water.

If this is not quite strong enough, soaking it in pure vinegar as described above is another good solution. 

Soaking the shower valve in shower descaling products from your local supermarket may also do the trick if the vinegar solution is not quite working or you fancy something stronger.  

Why is My Thermostatic Shower Running Cold?  

If your thermostatic shower is running cold intermittently, it may be down to a blocked shower head, damaged shower hose, or blocked inlet filters in the shower itself. Another option is faulty non-return valves.

If it is running consistently cold, it may be caused by blocked inlet filters or faulty non-return valves. 

If adjusting any of these issues does not work, you may need a new thermostatic cartridge. However, replacing thermostatic cartridges is often more expensive than buying a new shower, so bear this in mind when making your decision. 

Thermostatic Shower for Bath 

It is indeed possible to find a range of thermostatic valves that work for both baths and showers. 

Often, they appear similar to normal combination taps but just have the thermostatic valve inside them. Thermostatic taps for baths work in the same way as thermostatic showers; water just comes out of a tap rather than a shower head.

There are also thermostatic taps designed for baths alone for people who do not have showers in their home. Places such as your local Screwfix will usually supply these, or you can buy online from websites like Amazon.  

Best Thermostatic Shower for Combi Boiler  

Having a combi boiler in your house may seem like an issue when buying a thermostatic shower, but it is not. There are plenty of excellent thermostatic shower choices that work with a combi boiler.

One such option is the Mira Element Thermostatic Mixer Shower; it is a little expensive, but it has an elegant design made of complete chrome. 

It has Magni-flo technology which is capable of delivering three times more flow than other models. All this paired with a five-year guarantee make this is a fantastic choice for your bathroom.  

Thermostatic Shower Valve for Camper Van  

Travelling on road trips does not mean sacrificing your creature comforts. Camper van showers have slightly different requirements to other showers, but it is possible to bring a thermostatic shower into your camper van.

You can get shower valves for showers only, or a combination bath and shower tap for your convenience. 

There are plenty of choices for every need and budget, so you are sure to find the right shower valve for you.

Thermostatic shower valves for camper vans can be a little pricey, but the safety and convenience are worth it. Having a thermostatic shower valve in your camper van means that you can take amazing showers even while on the go.  

To Conclude  

Now you know everything there is to know about thermostatic showers. From what they are, to maintenance and how they work; this guide has covered the essential information you need about thermostatic showers.

We even included some recommendations to get you started. Whether you wanted to buy a thermostatic shower, fix a thermostatic shower, or were simply curious about them, we hope you found what you were looking for. 

What do you think about thermostatic showers? Do you have one? Are you now considering buying one? We love hearing from you, so please leave your thoughts in the comment section below.

Do I Have Low Pressure in the Shower? 

Before we look at whether or not you have low water pressure, it is good to go over the main causes so that you have a good idea of what might be causing the issues. Here are the most common reasons:

Your mains use old piping.

If you are in the middle of a town or city, then you likely have low water pressure because of the mains system. This is because they use much older piping as replacing it would cause severe disruption and so is not deemed as urgent work (unless it breaks).

You have an undersized piping supply. 

There are so many homes with piping that is technically too small, and this can cause very low water pressure. Older houses are most at risk because the original plumbing system is likely still in place.

Again, this is disruptive work, which is why so many homeowners don’t bother replacing it. Your system might be clogged. If you live in a home that uses iron piping, then you are more at risk of it becoming clog.

This is because iron is very prone to rust, and where the pipes are frequently in contact with water, parts can break up and block the pipes so that the water cannot flow as freely as it did before.

You have a shower head that is restricting the flow.

Your shower head can actually make or break your water pressure. and you might not even realise that you have a flow restricting or water saving head attached. Before you do anything, try replacing the head and see if that changes the pressure.

Your valve is obstructed or shut off. 

This usually happens when you buy a new home or have just had building work done. Often, you will find that it is not fully opened, and ensuring that it is can make a huge difference to your water pressure in your shower.

Usually, it is located under your kitchen sink, and if you think it is broken, you need to contact your plumber immediately. The thing is, it can be hard to know if you actually have low water pressure or not, and it is not always possible to tell just by watching the water come out of the head.

To determine whether or not you have low pressure in your shower, here are some quick and simple steps. How long does it take? Six seconds, to be exact. Just check out the section below to find out how to do it. 

Further Reading: How to Install Concealed Shower Valve Mixer

How to increase water pressure in the shower

1. Clean Your Shower Head 

2. Replace Your Shower Head 

3. Install A Shower Pump 

4. Installing a pressurised unvented cylinder

5. Install A Power Shower

Read more below to learn more about each sections on how to increase your water pressure in your shower.

How to Test Low Pressure 

What you need:

Step One: take the jug and place it under the electric shower head.

Step Two: turn the shower on, and make sure it is on the most powerful setting.

Step Three: use the timer to see how long it takes to fill the jug. If it takes more than six seconds, you have low water pressure in your shower.

Step Four: if you want to measure the full water flow, take the calculator and the timer. The flow rate should be at least ten litres of water per minute for a regular shower.

This is the quickest and easiest way to measure your water pressure. You can also hire a professional plumber to do it if you want an expert reading, but the above method is just as accurate and effective. 

Shower Pressure Booster 

This is the hardcore way to increase your shower pressure, and it is also one of the most effective (aside from changing the head). You could be boosted up to 60 litres per minute by having one of these, and the key is ensuring that you purchase one that is high-quality.

It might end up costing you a little more, but it will be worth it for something that works well and provides you with the pressure that you need. However, before you decide to embark on this venture, you should have a professional come an assess your home.

There are some systems that are not compatible with a shower pump, and if this is the case for yours, it would be awful to buy one only to discover that it doesn’t work. The expert consultation also means any other potential issues can be identified and addressed.

Here’s a quick look at how they work, and how they increase electric shower pressure (and general shower pressure), as well as the estimated cost of your new installation.

When you turn them on, the shower pump is activated, and the water travelling to your shower will pass through it first. As it does this, the shower pump uses a propeller mechanism to boost the water pressure in your shower.

It’s a really simple process, but also exceptionally effective. Generally speaking, it could cost anywhere between £100 and £500, depending on the shower pump and the quality. You will need to put an extra £150 or so aside if you decide to have a plumber install it. 

How to Fit a Shower Pump 

If you are going to install a shower pump yourself, you really need to know what you are doing before you do so. If at any point you feel it might be too complicated, call a plumber to do it for you.

A shower pump that has not been installed correctly could leak and cause water damage, as well as general damage to your shower system. Now, if you’re ready, you can follow the steps below:

Step One:

Choose where you are going to install the shower pump. It should be in a location that is easy to access in case it needs to be repaired, replaced, or the filters have to be cleaned.

It must not be covered, and it should never freeze or be exposed to low temperatures. Similarly, for safety reasons, it must be installed two feet from the shower tray and basin.

Also Read: Find the Best Shower Trays

Step Two:

Now you can hook up the electrics, although unless you are a qualified electrician, this stage should be done by a professional for safety and to ensure it is up to standards. When you connect the pump, it should be from a 230v switched spur off a ring main.

You should never connect it to the supply for the hot water immersion cylinder, or another high-load installation, as these require a dedicated supply and cannot have others working off them. 

Step Three:

Make sure that the water supply to and from the pump can be isolated, and the pipework should be 22mm to reduce any flow resistance.

Even if it has 15mm connections, you should still use 22mm pipework. A flange should also be attached to the top of the hot water cylinder to prevent air from escaping. 

Step Four:

Ensure the outgoing and delivery pipes are flexible, because they are less likely to break or be affected by the vibrations that occur when the pump is running.

This also means that the noise levels will tend to be reduced, and there is little risk of damage to the actual pump. Make sure to flush the pipes before they are connected to the pump. 

Step Five:

once it has been installed, prime the pump. To do this, switch the electrical supply off and run a bucket of water out of both the hot and cold sides until it runs clear. This means that air will not be trapped in the pump while it is running. 

Can a New Shower Head Improve Water Pressure? 

The short answer? Yes, it really can, and it is perfect if you are looking at how to increase shower pressure without a pump. There are a few shower head issues that could cause the water pressure to below:

These three factors can be detrimental. If you have a shower head that blocks easily (I have one like that currently, and it is a nightmare) just replace it. There is no point trying to fix it, most of the time it won’t work, and they are cheap to replace.

If you have a water saving shower head, again, replacing it is the best way to boost your water pressure in the shower. A top tip for new shower heads; pick one up that is easy to clean, these have nozzles that just need you to rub a finger on them in order to keep them clean.

Now, if your electric shower head is dirty, there is a way to fix that. One of the best and most effective ways to clean your shower head is to leave it to soak in a bucket of white vinegar for 30 minutes.

If you have a mounted shower, just tie a plastic bag around it and fill it with white vinegar. After, drain the basin/bag and scrub the nozzles on the shower head to remove any excess limescale and debris. Then, rinse it out and make sure that it is running smoothly. 

What causes low water pressure in shower?

What Causes Low Water Pressure in the Shower? ... Shower low water pressure can be caused by many things ranging from blocked electric shower heads or accidentally turned shut off valve to the more serious causes like blocked pipes or a leak somewhere in the line. Low water pressure can also be due to more than one problem

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide was just what you needed to try and solve your shower pressure issues. 

It could be something simple, like replacing your electric shower head, or something more serious that requires the attention of a plumber, but there are so many things you can try to get things working properly again.

Plus, we even included a handy guide to installing your own shower pump if you feel like taking that road.

What did you think of our guide to increasing your shower pressure? Did our solutions work for you, or are there others you would have added? We love hearing from you, so leave us a message in the comments below. 

Doing the work yourself when installing things like shower screens can save a lot of money, but it can also take up time as well as cause stress if you aren’t entirely sure what you’re doing.

We aren’t just here to take you through a few basic steps; we are here to show you exactly how to install your new shower screen with ease, allowing you to get on with the job and get back to using your shower in no time at all.

This guide is here to help, take some of the stress away, and make life that much easier for you. So, keep reading below and let us deal with the hard stuff. 

Tools Required

Before you do anything, you need to make sure that you have all the tools required to get the work done, and you will find each of them on the list below:

Check for Pipework

The first thing you need to do is turn the water off at the mains. This will prevent any leaks, and if you accidentally hit something, you are less likely to cause water damage to your home.

This is because you will need to check for pipes before you drill to ensure that you aren’t going to hit one, and the best tool for this particular task is a multi-detector. 

Position the U-Channel

You will find the U-channel comes separately, for later you will need to place it on the side of the screen, and for this step, you will need to position it where you plan to install it.

At this point, you should also use a spirit level to ensure that everything is even and correctly positioned. Once you are happy with where it is, use the pencil to mark the areas you will be drilling for your reference. 

Drill the Holes 

If you are afraid the drill might slip while you are using it, you can place some masking tape over the area you plan to drill before you do so.

This does often help keep everything in place, and offers a little more security while you work. Once ready, drill the holes and insert the plugs provided with the shower screen. 

Hold the U-Channel in Place with Adhesive 

For this step, take a strip of adhesive and place it on the back of the U-channel. Then, place it against the wall in the area it is to be installed and hold it firmly in place so that it can get a good grip on the wall.

Once you have held it for a few moments, you can secure it in place with a set of screws and fixings. Make sure that it is in place and steady, as well as fully fixed to the wall. 

Insert the Screen 

First, take the rubber seal provided and place it along the bottom of the glass screen to protect both it and the floor. Once that is done, insert the screen into the U-channel and hold it in place while you secure it in the next step. 

Secure the Bath Screen

Using the U-channel as a guide, drill the necessary holes into the frame before securing the screen with the provided screws and fixings.

Make sure you remember to fit the caps at the end in order to finish it – both for safety and so that it looks good. You can also adjust the top and bottom screws if you feel the seal is too close or far from the ground.

Also Read: Cost of New Shower Room in UK

Seal the Outer Edges of the Screen 

Now that everything is in place, you can use silicone sealant to seal the edges of the screen where they meet the wall. This creates a watertight seal that prevents moisture from escaping so that your bathroom stays nice and dry when you are showering.

Specific Types of Shower Screen

When you are installing a shower screen, it will typically follow the steps above regardless of which type it is, but there may be variations that need to be taken into account for specific screens.

In the section below, we go through the six main types and highlight any extra steps that may need to be taken during the installation process. 

#1 How to Fit a Folding Shower Screen

There is nothing different for this particular type of shower screen; you just need to make sure that the foldable section is secured so that it does not end up hitting you or something else while you are trying to install it. Sometimes, it is easier with two people, but otherwise taping it together tends to work well. 

#2 How to Fit a Shower Screen on a Bath 

When you are fitting a screen on a bath, there are a couple of things you need to consider and do differently. The first is that when you are positioning the U-channel, it should be a 40mm depth away from the actual bath and it should sit flush.

This means that you may need to cut away silicone or beading and fix the area up later. The shower screen should also rest on the edge of the bath with a silicone seal at the bottom to prevent them from scraping against each other.

Similarly, the outer edges of the bath will need to be sealed with silicone sealant at the end to create a watertight finish. 

#3 How to Fit a Shower Screen Over a Window 

This can be a little tricky, and realistically you cannot fit a shower screen over a window. The best and most recommended option is that you either have the window removed and bricked up, or you buy a shower wall panel to go over the window so that you can install the screen.

Otherwise, it is sometimes possible to have a custom shower screen made that works with the window, but this tends to be an incredibly expensive option. 

#4 How to Fit a Shower Screen on Tiles 

Typically, there isn’t an issue with fitting a shower screen on tiles, and the process is the same as the main one above.

You just need to be careful with the drill to ensure that the holes do not end up too big, and if the tiles are ceramic a gentle touch is strongly recommended. 

#5 How to Fit a Shower Screen on Uneven Tiles 

If you have uneven tiles, there is no need to worry about it as a good splash of silicone on the U-channel should sort the problem out effortlessly.

You could also take an angle-grinder to the area, but that can be quite an extreme measure. In the vast majority of cases, the extra silicone when attaching the channel is more than enough.

#6 How to Fit a Curved Shower Screen Seal 

The seals tend to be really stiff, and this can be exceptionally frustrating when you are trying to attach them to a curved screen.

In cases like this, placing the seal in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes tends to loosen it up a little so that it becomes more flexible when you go to put it on.

A little dab of Vaseline can also be a great trick to keep it moving smoothly as you slide it onto the screen. It’s our favourite option as it takes all of the stress and rage out of the process. 

How to Install a Shower Screen

Step One: Installing the Aluminium Channel

First, set the channel in position and ensure that it is square with the spirit level. You need to ensure that your lines are accurate and straight for the installation to be successful. Mark the hole points on the wall through the channel so that you remember them. 

Next, use a pipe detector on the wall to ensure that you are not at risk of hitting any water pipes while you are drilling. Once you are clear, you can drill the marked holes to make room for the aluminium channel. You can then insert the wall plugs. 

To ensure the wall plugs are securely fitted into the wall, use a hammer to lightly tap them into place. Now you can position the channel and insert the screws before using the drill to secure the channel in place. 

Step Two: Glass Installation

Once the channel has been installed, you can bring the glass in. It is best to have glass grips for this to help reduce the risk of dropping and shattering it, but you can also carry it by hand carefully. It is recommended that you do not do this step alone as the glass is heavy. 

Slide the aluminium strip on the side of the glass into the channel, pushing it until it touches the back.

You can then drill a hole at the top of the channel and insert the screw that came with it to keep it in place. You should also rest the glass on rubber to prevent it from hitting the floor. 

You can then install the floor bracket that will keep the glass in place. Make sure you use a drill bit that is suitable for the material that the floor is made of so that you get the best results. You can then secure the glass between the two sides of the bracket and screw it in place. 

Step Three: The Supporting Bar

You may have to place the supporting bar in its desired location and then mark it so that it can be cut down to the required size. Once you have done this, you can place the caps on either end of the bar and put it back in position. 

Use the spirit level to ensure that it is level and straight before marking the position against the wall. You can then mark the position for the drill and make a hole in the tile and wall. Insert the wall plug and then fit the bracket into position. 

Once the bracket has been fitted, place the bar inside it and then do the same for the glass on the other side. Tighten it well so that it remains secure, but remember to be gentle with the glass even though it is stronger than standard glass. 

Step Four: Sealing

Now you will need to apply silicone sealant to the outside of the shower. This maintains waterproofing and keeps everything watertight. Ensure it is applied to the walls as well as the base of the shower screen. 

To smooth off the silicone, apply some water to your finger and run it along the edges. Since your finger is wet, it means the silicone will not stick to your skin and will be easy to wipe clean. Next, you can use a forming tool to shape the silicone and press it into the joint. 

Further Reading: How to Fit a Shower Enclosure

Frequently Asked Questions 

Is fitting a curved screen harder than a flat one? 

In some ways, yes, it can be a little harder than a flat screen. This is purely down to the fact that it is shaped differently and can, therefore, be a bit trickier to carry around.

However, once you have it stood up and ready to slide into place, it is just the same as fitting a flat panel. Just make sure you don’t rush it, and that you carry and place it carefully to avoid any accidents – something that really applies to the whole process. 

What is a bracing bar, and do I need one? 

You only need a bracing bat of you are installing the screen for use with a walk-in shower, and this is because the screen tends to be larger (often in several parts) and needs the extra support.

It is quite easy to install as all of the components will come with it, and you can find the quick steps for bracing bar installation below:

How much silicone do I need to seal it at the end? 

You only really need a bead of silicone at the end in order to secure everything and get a nice seal.

Too much leaves a lot of mess that needs to be cleaned quickly, and the term “less is more” strongly applies to the use of silicone sealant. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by how far a little bit can go when perfecting your bathroom. 

Can I install the screen without an electric drill? 

No, you can’t complete the installation process without an electric drill. This is because it offers the required amount of power to ensure that the screen is held in place and secure at all times.

Without it, you run the risk of the screen being loose after installation, which could potentially lead to it falling and injuring you. Do not attempt installation without the required tools for the job. 

How long does a shower screen normally take to install?

Usually it will only take around 1 - 2 hours to install a shower screen as it all depends on your skills and which tools you are using. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has been extensive enough to show you just how to install your new shower screen. It might seem like a lot of hassle when you first unpack everything, but as long as you are patient with the process you will be surprised by how easy the process can be.

Just follow our advice, never be afraid to reach out for help if you need it, and make sure you take things slowly instead of rushing. Do all of this, and you will have the job done in no time.

What did you think of our shower screen installation guide? Is it a massive success, or are there steps you felt were missing from the process? We love hearing from you, so please feel free to leave us a message in the comment section below. 

Silicone removal is about more than just the shower though; it’s good to know how you can get it off your hands and clothing (since it tends to stick).

We answer every burning question you have about silicone remover, even how to remove mouldy silicone, as well as why you should be doing it in the first place. Time to get to work fixing up your shower. 

Why Do We Need to Remove the Old Silicone? 

Silicone doesn’t last forever, and it will need to be replaced so that it can keep working to protect your walls and tiles. Over time, it starts to lose that adhesive stick, and it may even become damaged or have mould growth that you can’t get rid of.

Mould is especially tricky because it can have a negative impact on your health and wellbeing, which means it should be tackled as quickly as possible.

Even if none of this is true, you should be removing and replacing the sealant every year or two to ensure that it remains strong and watertight. 

How to Remove Silicone from Your Shower 

The best method for removing silicone sealant from your shower is the old-fashioned way; with your hands and a few tools. To get started, you are going to need the following:

Once you have all of these, you can follow the steps below to successfully remove the silicone sealant from your shower. Remember to put your gloves and safety glasses on before you begin. 

Here's how to remove silicone sealant easily:

Step 1: Take away old sealant with a stanly knife

Use the Staley knife to cut away the old sealant. Make sure you are as gentle as possible while you do so, as this will ensure you do not damage the wall or surrounding area. You don’t need to worry about getting every little scrap, just focus on the bulk of the sealant. 

Step 2: Remove left over silicone

At this point, you will be likely to be left with some silicone remover strands. A lot of the time, this can be removed with your hands, using a chisel/scraper, or rubbing it with a cloth dipped in white spirit. 

It can take a little while, but it is important all of the sealant is removed so that you can reapply it smoothly. 

Step 3: Remove any residue left over from the silicone

Make sure you also remove the residue from the silicone as well so that the entire area is nice and clear. Now that everything has been removed, you can apply the new silicone sealant to the area. We have a great guide on that for you as well. 

Further Reading: Silicone and Caulk Guide

How to Remove Silicone from Your Hands 

There are a few ways you can remove silicone from your hands, and it is important to do it quickly because it can be really tough to remove once it dries.

Plus, it can irritate the skin if you are quite sensitive, which is partly why gloves are so highly recommended. Each of the tips below contains a series of detailed steps to help you get it right the first time. 

Method One: The Plastic Bag 

#1 Remove as much of the silicone as you can before it dries, either by washing your hands or wiping them with paper towels.

Do not use a fabric towel because the silicone will be difficult to get out once it dries. The more you can get off while it’s wet, the easier it will be to ensure they are completely clean.

#2 Grab a plastic bag from the supermarket and use it in the same way you would a cloth. This is because the silicone will be more attracted to sticking to the plastic than your hands, and so it will draw the excess away from you.

#3 Rinse your hands with water once you have used the plastic bag to remove any remaining silicone from them. Then, dry your hands and repeat the method if you need to. This can be done as many times as you need, but if you act fast, you will only have to do it once. 

Also Read: Remove Mould from Shower

Method Two: Nail Polish Remover (Acetone)

#1 Remove as much of the silicone with a paper towel before it has a chance to dry, maximising your chances of getting rid of everything in one go. Silicone does tend to dry faster on hands because the amount is much smaller, so time is of the essence.

#2 Once the large chunks have been removed, wash your hands with soap and water to soften the remaining silicone so that it is a little easier to remove in the next step.

#3 take some cotton pads, or kitchen roll, and apply the nail varnish remover (which contains acetone) liberally.

Rub it all over your hands so that they are nice and damp, and wait for the remover to start taking effect. Once it does, use a paper towel to vigorously scrub the areas so that all of the silicone is removed.

#4 When this is finished, wash your hands with soap and warm water before drying them. Apply moisturiser to your hands to prevent them from drying out, and then check to see if you need to repeat the process.

You should only go through it again once to prevent your skin from cracking, and if it still does not work wait for the silicone to come off naturally. 

How to Remove Silicone from Your Clothes 

There really isn’t much worse than your clothes getting covered in silicone, because it’s really difficult to handle when it dries, and fabrics can be a nightmare.

This is why it is usually recommended that you wear old clothes you don’t care about when using silicone, but that doesn’t mean you can’t want them to be clean again. Have a look at our methods, and the steps that come with them. 

Method One: Freezing 

#1 Place the clothing in a bag and then put it in the freezer for a few hours, causing the silicone to become incredibly hard. The biggest and lumpiest part of the stain should peel off once you take it out of the freezer, and you can do this with your hands.

#2 Grab a pair of scissors and use them to scrape off the remaining areas of the stain. You can also use a butter knife to do this, but make sure your chosen tool isn’t too sharp so that you don’t accidentally tear the fabric.

#3 Once this is done, take some rubbing alcohol and scrub the affected area to remove the stain and leave it looking fresh again. You can also use a stronger cleaning agent if you feel the stain needs it. The process can be repeated if some of the silicone remains. 

Method Two: Blotting 

#1 This method is best if the stain has not yet had the chance to dry, and if this is the case throw it in the washing machine with your usual detergent and let it run on a regular setting.

For white clothing, you can add a little bleach to the mix. If the stain is quite fresh, you might find that this step is the only one you need to take.

#2 If the washing cycle was not quite enough, take a cloth and dampen it with warm water. Press it firmly against the stain to let the water sink in and dab it repeatedly to get as much of the silicone sealant off as possible.

#3 When a good chunk of excess silicone sealant has been removed, use a clean cloth and some rubbing alcohol to work out the remainder of the stain. You should blot it liberally and leave it to soak in, repeating as many times as needed until the stain is practically gone.

#4 For the final step, put the clothing into the washing machine and run it through on the usual setting. It may need to be washed a few times in order to remove it, and you should not place it in a dryer as this can cause any remaining stain to fully set and harden. 

Method Three: Chemicals 

You can also use chemical stain removers that you find in the supermarket to get rid of silicone stains. All you need to do is follow the instructions on the label to remove the silicone stains. Just remember to test it on some old clothing first to ensure it won’t damage your garment. 

Method Four: Baking Powder 

#1 Wet the stain with water and leave it to soak for a moment. Then, pour the baking soda onto the area.

#2 Take a cloth and massage the baking powder into the stain so that it can absorb everything. Repeat the process as needed until the stain is completely (or at least mostly) gone.

#3 Put the clothing in the washing machine and run on a regular cycle to rinse the clothing out. Leave it to dry naturally and then check to see if the stain is gone.

Can You use Acetone to Remove silicone sealant? 

In short, you can use acetone to remove silicone sealant, but it is not always advised. It does a fantastic job at dissolving the silicone, making the job pretty quick and easy when compared to other methods.

However, the solution is so powerful that it can actually melt some plastics so you should test it on a hidden area first. It can also damage the seals on drains, so you should speak to an expert before you decide to use it in your shower. 

What will dissolve silicone?

Vinegar and isopropyl alcohol will work well to dissolve silicone. The best way to remove silicone sealant short of using a digestant is to treat it with a silicone sealant remover, WD-40, vinegar or alcohol, wait for it to soften and then attack it with a knife or paint scraper.

To Conclude

Hopefully, this has helped you to figure out the best way to remove silicone sealant from your shower. What about replacing it though?

It may feel like it is missing in this guide, but we actually have an entire one dedicated to the application process that you can check out. We’re dedicated to making your bathroom renovations a massive success, so no matter your needs, we have something here for you.

What did you think of our silicone removal guide? Were you able to get it out of everything, or are there other areas that you felt should have been covered? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comment section below. 

If your shower pump has stopped working then its important to firstly check the power supply to your shower pump. Then you must then check their is no blockages in any of the outlet pipes. Lastly you may want to try resetting your shower pump, this is always worth trying.

This guide has been created to give you more guidance, and to help you understand more about shower pumps, how they work, and the issues that might need to be fixed down the line.

So, if you want the ultimate guide to everything you need to know about shower pump problems, you better be ready to read below. 

Why is My Shower Pump Not Working? 

There are so many different reasons why your shower pump might not be working, and practically every reason is listed here in this guide for you to look through.

It could be anything from limescale to a leak caused by an excess of pressure or loose seals. Therefore, you should have no problem finding out what the problem is, as well as the potential solutions. 

A Leaking Pump 

If a pump is leaking, that usually means that there is an issue with the seals. These deteriorate over time, and so leaks tend to indicate that they need to be replaced.

However, there could be several other causes for the leak in your pumps, and more of the symptoms can be found further down in this FAQ. 

A Cold Pump 

When you install a shower pump, it is important that you do not let it get cold or frosty as this can affect its functionality. The best way to avoid this is to protect it with insulation. By doing this, you keep it safe from the frost and also prevent it from getting cold. 

Noisy Shower Pump Problems

You should expect some noise from your shower pump because they are not silent installations in any way, but excessive noise can prove to be a problem.

It could mean that the pump is jammed, and therefore the impellers are not able to rotate correctly. Generally, this is caused by limescale, seals that have become stuck, or an electrical issue. 

If the pipes are not flexible, it can cause a large increase in noise, and the same goes if there are no anti-vibration feet attached to the base. Improperly connected or placed piping may also create extra noise, as does pipework that has not been supported correctly. 

Airlocks 

This is quite a common problem, and they can end up restricting the flow of water quite substantially. In order to remove the air from the pump, you will need to bleed the system – which is actually quite easy to do. You can find instructions in the next question, below. 

How to Bleed a Shower Pump? 

Before you start, make sure you shut down the electrical supply for the pump. Then, turn on the shower and ensure that it is completely emptied of water before switching it off again. You can then vent the pump directly by removing the connection pipes.

Blocked Pump Filters 

This is really common in hard water areas because there are more limescale and mineral deposits that build up and end up clogging shower head and pipes. However, it can also affect the filters on your pump and restrict the water flow.

You don’t necessarily need a professional to come and fix it, and if you feel confident enough you can save a little cash by doing it yourself. Make sure the service valves have been switched off and that the electrical supply has been disconnected.

Once this has been done, you can remove the filters and clean them carefully; removing any limescale and debris. After replacing them, you can reconnect everything and go back to use as normal. 

Can a Shower Pump be Used with a Combi Boiler?

No, you cannot use a shower pump with a combi boiler. This is because they rely on mains pressure, which can be great in some situations, but also means it cannot be used with a shower pump.

This is because there is no hot and cold tank, and so it can’t work with a pump because it would need separate hot and cold lines. 

Can a Shower Pump Freeze? 

Yes, a shower pump is just like any other piping system in your home – if it gets too cold it will end up freezing. This can be really damaging for a shower pump, and it should never be allowed to get too cold.

As we mentioned earlier in this FAQ, installing insulation around the pump should help to prevent freezing and rapid temperature drops. When you put the installation in, ensure there is a ventilation system to also prevent overheating. Ideally, a professional should undertake this task. 

How to Make a Shower Pump Quieter

There are a couple of ways you can reduce the amount of noise produced by your shower pump. The first, is with an anti-vibration mounting pad.

This offers you the perfect level of noise insulation, working to absorb motor noise and vibrations from the shower pump. You can also get a sound absorption mat, and this works in a similar way, as well as being an incredibly cheap solution. 

How Does a Shower Pump Switch on?

As soon as you start your shower and the water starts flowing, the pump will get to work. It needs water passing through its system so that it can boost the pressure and push the water out in a powerful stream.

The increased pressure also works against gravity as it travels upwards, which is why your overall pressure from the shower head is massively improved. 

Further Reading: Tips for Increasing Shower Pressure

How to Connect a Shower Pump? 

The process of connecting your shower pump can be complicated, and we actually have a detailed step-by-step for how to connect your shower pump up that you can read through.

However, we do strongly recommend that you have an electrician and plumber come out to do the work for you so that you know it meets safety standards and has been installed correctly. 

What is Positive Shower Pumps? 

These have been designed to be fed by gravity, and it needs at least a metre of distance (also known as a head) between the bottom of the cold-water cistern and the pump. The gravity feed will then serve to kick-start the pump, pushing water to the shower. 

What is a Negative Head Shower Pumps? 

These negative head showers are for use in a situation where it will be located at an equal level to, or above, the cold-water tank.

This is so that it can take water from the tank and feed it to the shower, and the fact that it is such a compact pump makes it popular for use in bungalows. Plus, the position of the hot water cylinder doesn’t matter either. 

What’s the Difference Between Positive and Negative Pumps? 

The positive shower pumps are gravity fed, and they need a specific amount of distance between them and the cistern.

The negative head versions are able to be placed at an equal level to the tank, and are also designed to be used in smaller spaces. It all depends on your home and plumbing system. 

Why Does My Shower Pump Pulse?

While it may feel like the issue is with the actual shower pump, it is usually actually caused by a blockage in your plumbing system.

This clog will cause a decline in the overall flow rate, creating a pulsing movement in the pump. It can be really difficult to determine exactly what is causing the issue, but here are some of the most common ones:

If it is not caused by any of the above, you should call a plumber out to investigate and figure out where the issue is within your plumbing. It is the safest bet for your home, and for your pipework. 

Shower Pumps Does Not Start 

There could be several reasons why your shower pump is not starting up, and most of them are best looked at and repaired by a plumber. Here are some of the main issues that could be occurring if your shower pump won’t start up:

Shower Pumps Too Powerful 

Too much power, or flow, can actually become a major issue, even though it may not seem that way when you are taking a shower. How can it be an issue though? The three main problems caused by a shower that is too powerful can be found below:

If you want to try and fix this, the best thing to try is partially closing the isolator valves on the outlet slide of the pump. Just make sure you do not restrict the flow on the inlet side.

Shower Pumps Burning Smell 

A lot of the time, the burning smell is caused by a blockage in the filters. This is because the clog will cause the pump to essentially work against itself, causing the motor to overheat.

Unblocking and cleaning the filter, as well as rinsing any debris from the hose, should get things working normally again. However, you should also get a professional out to inspect the motor and make sure that things are working correctly.

Shower Pumps Broken 

If your shower pump is no longer working and you can’t figure out what the problem is, there is only one course of action you can take.

You need to call a plumber. They will be able to assess the situation and tell you what’s wrong with your shower pump, as well as fix it for you. 

Shower Pumps Buzzing 

A buzzing or humming sound is a strong indication that your shower pump is jammed. If you live in an area with hard water, the most likely cause is limescale clogging up the machine, but it could also be due to a broken impeller. Sadly, no matter the cause, this particular issue almost always ends in the pump being completely replaced. 

Shower Pump Blowing Fuses 

There are a couple of reasons why a shower pump might be blowing a fuse. The first, and most common, is that you might be running too many electrical appliances at once, and the system simply can’t cope with the amount of power required. 

However, it could also be that there is an electrical short or fault within the pump that needs to be looked at by an electrician. Additionally, you could be using the wrong fuse for the pump. Make sure you use the exact fuse the manufacturer tells you to if you want it to work correctly.

Using one that is too powerful will cause it to short because it was not made to deal with that level of current, and one that is not powerful enough will not be able to work hard enough to get the pump working. 

Also Read: How to Fit a Power Shower

Shower Pump Comes on Randomly 

This can also be described as your shower pump turning itself on and off, so one moment it will be working fine, and then the next it’s not. This tends to be an issue seen in the higher end models, but that’s not a bad thing in any way.

The reason it does this is because the pump detects a leak in the system and shuts down before any further damage can occur. If this happens, you should check the system for leaks quickly, and possibly call a plumber out to fix it. 

Shower Pump Doesn’t Start Straight Away 

Sometimes, this is down to a faulty flow switch, and replacing it will be more than enough to get things working normally again. It is also the cheapest choice, so definitely worth trying before anything else. 

However, it is most likely due to there being incorrect space (or head) between the pump and the tank. While this is something you can fix yourself, the safest and most accurate option is to call out a plumber to do it for you. 

Shower Pump Hose Leak 

Leaks need to be dealt with quickly so that you can minimise damage to your home, as well as get things working correctly again quickly. Sometimes, wrapping PTFE tape around the leak will keep it secure, and there is also PTFE sealant that you can try. 

However, unless you are an expert, DIY jobs don’t always last as well as they could, and severe hose leaks may require professional attention. 

Shower Pump Jammed 

If your shower pump is jammed, there are a few things that could be causing it, and you can find them listed below:

Unfortunately, the prognosis for a jammed shower pump is not usually a good one, and you will often find that the whole thing needs to be replaced. 

Shower Pump on But No Water 

If there is no water, it is usually because there is a blockage that is causing a massively reduced flow through the pipes, sometimes blocking it completely.

This is often because of limescale, but it could also be due to air in the pump that needs to be vented (as described in the “Airlock” section of the FAQ). By clearing the blockage or bleeding the system of air, you should find free water flow returns to your pump. 

Shower Pump Replacement 

If your pump needs to be replaced, you’re going to need to start getting quotes from qualified installers.

Generally speaking, you can expect a high-quality shower pump with twin impellers to be around £350 without the fitting cost. In total, you should have £500-£700 set aside so that you can pay for both the new pump and the installation costs. 

Shower Pump Running Dry 

Usually, the main symptom of this is the pump turning itself off every time you go to start it. The reason this happens is because most pumps actually have a protection system in place to prevent damage to the pump if the water supply gets interrupted.

Fixing this involves venting the system of air, something we explain in more detail at the start of this FAQ under “Airlocks”. 

Shower Pump Pulsating 

A pulsing pump means that there is either a lack of water or lack of pressure. So its important to remove the head and and flush any air stuck in the pipes and make sure it is clean so that they can get the pressure back to normal.

How Long Should a Shower Pump Last?

Generally speaking, you can expect your shower pump to last for longer than the guarantee period. They tend to be quite reliable pieces of kit for your bathroom, and the average lifespan for a pump is eight years.

As a handy side note, you will find that most manufacturers will be happy to extend the guarantee by an additional year; and, in many ways, it’s a very reassuring feature. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has been able to help you learn more about the ways in which you can fix (or prevent) issues with your shower pump. From how to deal with the noise and the temperature, to the ways in which you can solve pulsing and general technical issues.

It’s always good to be fully informed before you have your shower pump installed, and you can never go wrong with a little extra knowledge.

What did you think of our shower pump problem FAQ? Were all your questions answered, and more? Are there places that we fell short? We love hearing from you, so let us know in the comment section below. 

it is important to know how to do it correctly and safely, all while ensuring they remain fully concealed. This DIY guide is exactly what you have been searching for. 

What Does a Concealed Shower Mean? 

When people refer to a concealed shower, it means that practically everything is hidden safely in the wall, floor, or ceiling. So, you won’t be able to see any pipework or a unit, and the only things that tend to be visible are the taps, temperature controls, and shower head.

It looks amazing, but having a fully concealed shower can be a little impractical. Many people go for what is known as a partially concealed shower, and this is where the shower head is on an adjustable rail.

The adjustable shower head does make cleaning much easier (especially if you have pets or kids), but it doesn’t look quite as spiffy as the fully concealed variety.

While the form that you go for is entirely your choice, it should be noted that the vast majority of concealed showers are power showers.

If you are looking to install one of these, there will be electrical work required, and you must get an electrician out to do the work for you, or check over anything you have done before you can use the shower. 

Fast Fixing Kits for Concealed Shower and Valves 

There are some mixer shower valves that come with something called a fast fixing kit, and this is supposed to allow for the easy connection to the tails in one movement.

Most showers have this option available, and they make everything so much quicker and simpler. If you have copper pipes, it should be noted that these will be fitted with compression or soldered joints. Flexible pipes, on the other hand, will be push-fitted together. 

Two-Way Concealed Shower Valve 

These run two outlets, such as an overhead shower and a side shower, or even a bath filler. It will have at least two handles attached to the valve, and if this is the case, then one of them will be a diverter and the other temperature control.

They are also known as a dual or twin shower valve, and are one of the most popular choices in modern bathrooms. Controlling the flow and temperature separately is incredibly efficient, and it helps to make things clearer for you.

However, there are also two-way valves that allow you to use one handle to control both the temperature and flow while the other determines where the water will be going (another shower head, the bath, and so on). 

Also Read: Sealing a Shower DIY Guide

Three-Way Concealed Shower Valve 

This particular type of shower valve tends to have three controls as opposed to two. It will allow you to run two of the outlets at the same time and each one of them independently, but this can depend on the manufacturer as well.

They are also known as triple valves and have been referred to as recessed/built-in valves. They are usually designed to be hidden behind a wall so that only the controls are visible, and all modern models are thermostatic so that you have complete control over the temperature at all times.

The handles usually work where one controls the flow, one is for the temperature, and the other divers the water to other outlets. It’s a handy and efficient process, especially with the extra handle. 

Fitting the Concealed Shower Valve 

Once you have chosen your ideal shower valve, you can get to the installation process. Of course, the aim is to ensure that it is hidden, and we have the perfect way to achieve that for you. Time to dust off the toolbox and get ready for a day of hard work; DIY style.

The best way to achieve the concealed shower effect is through false walls that contain all of the pipework and other components that you don’t want to be visible.

These must be carefully constructed, and accurate measurements should be taken before you begin building them.

You can use flexible connectors to feed the shower with hot and cold-water supplies, and these pipes tend to be long-lasting because of their flexible design. 

The hot and cold feed will need T-junctions to be put in place, and if you have plastic pipes connecting to copper tails, you should also ensure they are done so with the appropriate fixing kit. 

This is something you can check with your local hardware store, as it often depends on the piping.

Also Read: Shower Pump Problems

The copper tails should be passed through a backboard to ensure that they are in the exact location they need to be for when the plasterboard is fitted over them.

You must make sure that none of the pipework is able to move, as stability is key for a secure and safe shower system. Once the plasterboard is installed, the valves can be as well. 

It’s a very simple process in terms of the number of steps, but it does require you knowing the ins and outs of your plumbing system, where everything is, and also being confident enough to build false walls in your bathroom.

If you decide to undertake this project, do so slowly and with great care. If you feel lost or unsure at any point, call a plumber in to do the rest. It’s better to be safe rather than end up with a leaky valve. 

Step By Step Guide - 

Recessed shower valves can be pretty tricky to fit to a wall. Call it a design flaw, but the creators didn’t put a lot of thought into the process.

We get that, and we understand your pain, which is why we have some handy information for you as well as this step-by-step to make the process easier. 

Step One: Measuring Depths

The instructions for your concealed shower valve will tell you the minimum depth that you can use from the finished wall level. For example, a standard is 75-95mm. However, you have to remember that your depths will also rely on what your finished wall depth is going to be as well. 

This is why the shower valve sometimes needs to be recessed so that it matches up with the finished wall depth. Remember, the battening also counts when determining the wall depth. 

Step Two: Connections

Now you need to make up the connections that actually make the shower valve. As an example, if you have pipes that are going into the side, make sure you have the compression fittings ready for that. 

If you have pipes from the bottom (which is what we will be using as our example here), make sure the compression fittings are on first and then you will know exactly how much you need to gouge out in order to make them fit. 

Step Three: Mark-Up

Take the concealed shower valve and hold it against the installation area. With a permanent marker, make a rough outline of the valve and the connection lines. Take a spirit level and mark a straight line down from the bottom connections. 

You will also want to mark the grooves that you plan on cutting towards the top of the connections. You should use a disc cutter for this task as it gets a clean finish and is able to cut through thick material with ease. 

Step Four: Chase Depth and Cutting

To determine the chase depth for the pipe, you can use some simple math:

• Take the pipe width and multiply it by two 

• Add 5mm for the clip depth

• As an example, 15 x 2 + 5 = 35mm

Often, you will find that the valve will be at a different depth and you will need to bend or set the pipe.

Once you have done the math, you can use the disc cutter to cut out the piping sections. When finished, take out your chisel and gently hit it with a hammer to remove the sections. 

When the sections are cut, take the valve and check that it still lines up with the pipelines.

You can then cut the top off of the mark-up as well as a groove at the bottom. You can use the spirit level to ensure these mark-up lines are straight and better-defined for accuracy. 

PRO TIP: Cut using a noughts and crosses method towards the outermost points of the valve. This makes the brick easier to chase and provides more accurate depth. At the same time, it leaves a little more room around the valve and could save you some time. 

You can then use your chisel and hammer to remove the cut brick as you did before with the pipelines. 

Step Five: Cutting and Fitting

Fit the pipe and cut them down to the required length for installation. You can also take the time to ensure that the valve fits into the cut space and use the chisel to widen it a little if needed. Use the chisel to carve out the grooves towards the top of the piping you marked earlier. 

Now that you have checked the valve fits, use the spirit level to ensure the valve is lined up.

Mark the holes carefully using the permanent marker so that you remember where to place them. Check your depth to ensure that it meets the manufacturer requirements. 

Take your pipe clips and place one in each of the piping chambers. Next, drill your holes and plug them before preparing to screw the valve into place. Check that all the fittings are properly secured first and use jointing compound on the compression fittings. 

You will want to install the valve first to make the floor joints easier for you. Connect the pipes to the valve and secure them in place with a wrench and Locktight to keep the joints watertight as well as secure. You can then place the valve into the groove and use a drill to secure it in place. 

Push the pipes into place in the clips and use a hammer to gently ensure they are all the way in and perfectly secure. 

Step Six: Checks and Finishes

Now that it has been installed, check it over with the spirit level to ensure that it is still in line and also ensure that it is secure by giving it a quick tug. 

If you are worried about the copper piping (since copper and cement are not friends) the best thing you can do is to gaffa tape the joints and use hessian insulation to create a more efficient piping system while also making it more secure. 

You can also use expanding foam to protect the pipes, cutting it away with a handsaw and sanding it down once it has dried in order to leave it with a smooth finish. You can then install the plate with some silicone, and you’re ready to go. 

PRO TIP: Remember, if your wall isn’t thick enough to provide the minimum depth safely, always install studding so that you can achieve a concealed shower valve without risking the integrity of your wall. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has been able to teach you more than just how to install a concealed shower valve, and you have learned a lot more about how they work as well as what they are made up of.

Having a concealed shower might seem like a lot of work at first, but with this guide, we are able to ease you through the process so that you can achieve your dream bathroom without too much stress and hassle. 

What did you think of our concealed shower valve installation guide? Did it have everything you expected, or are there areas that left you feeling stuck? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below. 

Are you getting ready to have a power shower installed in your home? Are you looking to do the job yourself instead of hiring the professionals? If the answer to both of these questions is yes, then you are in the right place.

How Much Does It Cost to Fit a Power Shower? 

A lot of this depends on the path you choose. If you decide to go with a professional plumber, you could be looking at around £500 for a new installation in your bathroom. 

For simply replacing an existing system, however, a plumber and the shower is more likely to cost around £300 instead.

It should be noted that the day rates for both plumbers and electricians are approximately £150 to £200, and then you factor in the cost of the shower unit on top of that.

New installations tend to cost more because both the plumbing and electrics within your home will need work, but it also depends on how much of it you are prepared to do yourself. 

Can I Have a Power Shower in My Bathroom? 

A typical power shower works in much the same way as a mixer shower in that it combines hot and cold water from the appropriate tanks to create the perfect temperature.

They also tend to come with a pump to increase pressure, which is why they are so suited to homes with low pressure.

As a result, they tend to work best with gravity fed systems. There are also electric versions of power showers available for you to buy, and these do not need access to both water tanks as they heat the cold water up within the unit.

Again, they work best with the gravity fed systems. While there are some mixer versions that can be compatible with a combi boiler, it is essential that you check with a professional or the manufacturer before you buy and installing a power shower. 

Further Reading: Tips for Increasing Water Pressure

How long does it take to fit a power shower?

How long does it usually take to install, replace or repair a shower or shower pull cord? Electric shower normall will take 8 hours for a new installation. 2 hours to replace a shower unit , once parts have been organsised.

Preparation 

There are a couple of things you need to do before you can install a new shower, and each of them is essential.

The first is checking the kilowatt rating as soon as possible. This will give you a rough idea of how much the shower will cost to run because it will tell you how much power it needs.

Therefore, you have time to look into options that are cost-effective or have lower power settings. You should also ensure the room is clear and free from clutter.

This gives you a good working space, but also ensures that nothing of value will get damaged during the installation process.

You should also have a qualified electrician booked to come and check the finished results. Even if you are doing it yourself, you need to be safe and make sure that everything is working correctly. Plus, they will be needed to make the final connection. 

Materials Needed and Instructions 

Now that you are prepared for the installation, you need a list of the materials required for you to get on with the job. We’ve gathered an excellent one for you below:

Once you have all of these items gathered up and are ready to go, you can follow each of these steps to installing a power shower:

#1 The first thing you need to do is switch off the fuse box. Once this is done, you can find a good position for your new electric shower unit.

When you have found the perfect place, take the front cover for the water heater, lean it against the wall, and trace the outline with a pencil. Make sure you clearly mark drill hole locations, pipe points, and cable points. 

#2 Before you get down to drilling, take the electronic detector and scan the wall to ensure that you aren’t going to hit or interfere with anything. When that is all clear, you can begin drilling the fixing holes in the wall.

As a safety side note, the electrical cables from the water heater in the wall should be buried in the middle of the switch and unit either horizontally or vertically. 

#3 Now, drill the holes for the pipes and cable. If you need to, use a reciprocal saw to get everything just right, and then use the wall bracket or sliding rail so that you can make the outline for the shower rail hole position.

Then, turn off the main stopcock and run the cold tap dry. You can then use an adjustable wrench to connect the copper piping to the rising main with the compressed tee fixing.

#4 For this step, cut a hole in the wall at the mains pipe so that the compressed fixing can be accommodated. Once this is done, put the new copper piping in the third arm on the tee and place a stop valve close to the tee so that you have easy access for any future repairs.

Turn the stop valve off, reconnect the cold-water supply, and then attach a flexible hose over the end of the copper pipe. 

#5 You should then flush the new pipe so that you can check for leaks. Once finished, shut off the stop valve and link the copper pipe to the bottom of the heater unit. You should use an elbow pipe for this part, as well as a nut that can be sealed with an adjustable wrench.

You can then open the stop valve again to check the whole system for potential leaks. All you need now is for an electrician to come and ensure that everything is hooked up correctly to the electrics.

Just make sure the unit is attached securely to the wall, as well as any railings, and you are good to go.

Choosing a New Power Shower 

When you do go to select the next power shower for your home, you have the difficult task of choosing one that is just right. You will have the option of an electric or water-based system, and each of them is explained in a little more detail below:

Power Shower Pipework Size 

While there are varying sizes of power shower pipes out there, only one of them achieves the best results. A 22mm set of pipework is the ideal size, and alongside a 2-3 bar shower pump, you are sure to be enjoying the best shower of your life as soon as you turn it on. 

Also Read: How to Fit a Power Shower

To Conclude

Hopefully, this little guide has been able to help you gain the confidence to take on your DIY project. Alongside the steps to fitting your power shower, there is a plethora of handy information and tips so that you get the project just right.

Of course, we always advise that you seek out professional help if you feel stuck, concerned, or even a little unsure during the process. After all, having an incorrectly installed power shower would be an absolute nightmare.

What did you think of our power shower installation guide? Did it help you to achieve success, or are there areas you felt were lacking? We love hearing from you, so make sure to leave us a message in the comment section below.

The process of fitting your shower enclosure is actually a lot easier than it seems, and if I am able to put them together myself with no experience, then I have no doubt you will be able to as well.

So, if you’ve been wondering how to fit a shower enclosure, wonder no more. Everything you need to know can be found below. 

What is a Shower Enclosure? 

Put simply; a shower enclosure is a standalone cubicle that you stand inside in order to wash yourself and avoid soaking the entire bathroom.

There are one or two doors so that you can get in and out, and while there are a number of plastic models on the market, you will find that the vast majority are made from a combination of metal and glass.

The shower enclosure will contain a drain so that water can be directed to the waste pipe that will be hooked up to it.

Unless you have a wet room, there will also be a shower tray on the floor, and this is designed to keep water inside the enclosure and away from the ground. The enclosure also tends to rest on the tray for extra support. 

Tools You’ll Need 

Once you have unpacked your shower enclosure, make sure that you check for any damage or faults before you begin constructing it.

There isn’t much worse than putting all of the work and effort into constructing it only to discover that it’s faulty. Once this is done, gather the tools you need, each of which have been listed for you below:

Tools for stone shower trays:

Tools for acrylic shower trays: 

Check You Have the Following 

Next, you need to make sure you have all of the following materials so that you can construct your shower enclosure properly. Like the tools, this is an essential step before you get started:

Materials for when you have no riser kit:

Time to Complete 

Honestly, it’s not a job that will take you masses of time. To ensure you set a steady and patient pace, we recommend you set the whole day aside to get the job done. Realistically, however, it will only take you a few hours to complete. 

Fitting Your Shower Tray Without a Riser Kit 

If you don’t have a riser kit, there is no need to panic. If you are wondering what they are, then you are in the right place.

A riser kit refers to a fixed height shower that cannot be adjusted to your preferences, and therefore the head is locked in place. They do not have flexible hoses, and are usually attached to arms or mounted directly to the ceiling. 

Further Reading: Tips for Fitting Shower Tray Riser Kit

Here is How to Fit a Shower Enclosure 

In this section, we look at how to fit your shower tray, both with and without a riser kit. First, we will look at the process without a riser kit.

Step One: Place the shower tray in your desired position, and then use a pencil to draw around it on the floor. You should also pay careful attention to ensure that the position of the trap is clearly marked. 

Step Two: Using the jigsaw, cut a hole in the floor that is big enough to fit the shower trap. This is so that the water can flow into the waste outlet pipe.

Step Three: Now you need to cut an access hatch into the floor next to the tray. This is so that you will be able to get into the space beneath the tray once you have secured it. Your arm should be able to get into it comfortably so that you can access the waste outlet and trap.

Step Four: Using the instructions that have been supplied, attach the waste to the tray. Make sure that you attach rubber gaskets to either side of the waste to make a watertight seal that will prevent leaking. 

Step Five: Dilute some PVA, using one-part water and five parts PVA, and spread the mixture across the area where the shower tray will be placed. Make sure you give it some time to dry – making it the perfect moment for a quick coffee break. 

Step Six: To make mortar, use the bucket and take four parts building sand to one part cement, mixing it until you create a form consistency. Apply a thin layer of approximately 25mm in depth to the area where the tray will be placed. 

Step Seven: Now, place the tray on top of the mortar and allow it to rest into its new position. Using a spirit level, ensure that it is completely level from all angles. This is the ideal point to even out the mortar if necessary.

Step Eight: Smooth the mortar around the edges of the tray, and then leave to dry for 24 hours before you proceed with the next step.

Step Nine: Reach into the access hatch and connect the trap to the waste, and the waste to the waste outlet pipe. Make sure there are no leaks or potential areas for it to happen.

Step Ten: Seal the edges of the tray with silicone sealant, using the gun for speed, accuracy, and efficiency. Then, replace the lid on the hatch and prepare to build the actual enclosure. 

If you have a riser kit, there are less steps, and the process is actually really simple. You can find each of the steps for tray installation with a riser kit below:

Step One: Using the instructions that have been supplied, screw the adjustable feet into position. Then, fit the waste to the shower tray.

Step Two: Place the shower tray in the desired position, using a spirit level to ensure that everything is even. If it is not, take the adjustable wrench and fiddle with the feet until it is even.

Step Three: Connect the waste to the waste outlet pipe.

Step Four: Clip on the side panels that have been provided with your tray, and then check for any leaks to make sure that everything is secure.

Step Five: Using the silicone sealant and the gun, seal around the edges of the tray and then prepare to build the actual enclosure. 

Fitting Your Enclosure 

There are so many different shapes and sizes of shower enclosure, and each of them may end up varying slightly. For the next section on fitting your shower enclosure, we have used the most common type and position; a square enclosure being installed in the corner of the room.

In this situation, you will only need one panel and door, but the same methods can be easily applied to other forms of enclosure.

Here is How to Fit a Shower Enclosure 

Whether you are looking to see how to install a corner shower enclosure, or even a frameless one, the basics are all the same. Just follow the steps below and remember the key piece of information: always be patient and take things slowly.

Step One: Start with the channels that you will be using to fix the panels to the wall. Use your spirit level to ensure that they are vertical, and then place the channels at the corner edges of your tray.

Step Two: Take the electric drill and use it to drill pilot holes in the wall. Then, insert the raw plugs and screw the channels into place.

Step Three: Decide which side your door is going to be on, and then take the side panel that will be permanently held in place and insert it into the appropriate channel.

Step Four: Fit the door into the other channel. If you have a friend or family member that is able to help you hold everything in place, it is ideal. If not, it is possible to install the door and wall separately. 

Step Five: Using the instructions that come with your enclosure, fix each of the panels together at the corner. Then, using the fixings provided, screw the panels into position.

Step Seven: Attach the handle to the door and secure it in place. Then, seal around the outer edges of your enclosure using the silicone sealant and the gun. Make sure you do not seal the inside edges. 

Step Eight: Take a step back and admire your good work. You have just successfully installed a secure and sturdy shower enclosure. 

Also Read: DIY Guide for Fitting Shower Tray

Do I tile before fitting shower enclosure?

If a shower enclosure is being fitted, the tiling should be done after the shower tray has been installed. The rest of the enclosure is fitted after the tiling has been completed.

Framed Shower Enclosures 

Installing a framed shower enclosure is the same as the instructions above, so it’s very simple with very little deviation from the main steps (unless the manufacturer states otherwise).

However, when you are looking at how to install a frameless shower enclosure, there are a couple of differences – each of which has been listed below for your convenience:

There are not many differences, but they are important, so if you have a frameless shower enclosure that is being installed, make sure you are careful to remember these key pieces of information. 

To Conclude 

Hopefully, this guide has shown you that the installation process for a new shower enclosure is not actually as terrifying as it initially seems, and it has given you the motivation to get right into the task without too much worrying.

As we have said before, it is a lot easier than it looks, and you will find that if you take your time and are patient, the process is incredibly smooth. Of course, if you ever feel like you need professional help, there is no shame in calling them out.

After all, it is better to get the experts in than damage your new enclosure permanently. What did you think of our guide to fitting a shower enclosure?

Were the steps detailed enough for you to handle things on your own, or are there details you feel that we missed? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave a message for us in the comments below. 

Done wrong, it can leak, damage the ground, and end up ruining your floors. The process will take time and patience, but it is worth it for good results in the end.

To ensure you don’t make the same mistakes as many before you, this guide will take you through the installation process for your new shower tray. 

What Type of Shower Tray are You Installing? 

First, you need to determine the type of shower tray you are installing – is it a height adjustable one or a low profile one? This is important because they require different installation methods. In this guide, we are looking at the low-profile shower tray.

It is not as popular as the adjustable (or high-riser) version of a shower tray, and can be a little more complicated to install, but is still commonly used. If you are looking to install an adjustable shower tray in your home, you can head over to the guide we have written for it. 

What Tools You Will Need

Before you get started, you need to know exactly which tools are required to get the work done so that you are fully prepared to install your shower tray. Here’s a quick checklist for you to go through: 

The Installation Process

Now that you have everything you need to get the work done, we can finally move onto the installation stage. Before we do so, there are a couple of key pieces of advice that you should keep in mind.

The first is that while these steps cover pretty much every aspect of how to install a low-profile shower tray, it may also vary slightly between manufacturers, so you should always read the instructions and paperwork that comes with your new tray first. 

The second is that while the process may seem very straightforward, it can be difficult to install a low-profile shower tray, and there is no shame in admitting this.

The shower trays need to be placed and fitted correctly, so if you are ever in doubt make sure you call up the professionals and ask for advice.

How to Fit A Shower Tray Yourself

It’s better to admit defeat than do things completely wrong – especially since it can end up flooding and damaging your bathroom. Now that’s out of the way; you can find the detailed steps for tray installation below:

1. Marking Out Where the Tray Will Sit

2. Cut An Access Hatch In The Floor

3. Assemble The Waste Pipe

4. Create Motar for The Tray To Be Installed

5. Apply Sealant 

6. Complete Surrounding Walls 

#1 Ensure that the area of flooring you are going to put the shower tray on is level, sturdy, and made from strong materials.

Any flexibility can cause issues with the stability of the shower tray over time. Once this is done, place the shower tray in the intended area and use the pencil to draw around it – marking where it will be installed. 

#2 Now that this is done, you can use the jigsaw to cut an access hatch into the floor next to the tray.

It should be large enough for you to get your hand and part of your forearm into, because this is where you will be able to reach the shower tray waste if and when you need to. Remember to place the flooring you cut back on top as the hatch will need a lid.

#3 There will also need to be a hole for the shower waste tray, and this is where the jigsaw comes in handy once again.

However, it is essential that you take precise measurements of the area before cutting the hole because accuracy is key with this particular task. Once you have done this, you can assemble the shower tray waste and get it fully installed. 

Further Reading: Best Shower Trays Reviews

#4 At this point, it is time to get the floor ready for the low profile shower tray. Take five parts building sand and one-part cement, mixing them together to create mortar.

Then, apply a thin layer to the area where the tray will be installed before pressing the tray into the area to ensure it fits comfortably. Use the spirit level to then ensure that everything is even. Once you are happy with the results, leave the mortar to dry for 24 hours. 

#5 Return to the hatch you made earlier and use this opportunity to connect the shower tray waste trap to the outlet pipe so that everything is ready to go.

Take a moment to also ensure the seal between the two is watertight. Once the mortar is dry, you can also start to apply sealant to the edges to keep

With all of this done, you have successfully installed your low profile shower tray and can get on with using it as normal.

It takes a good amount of work, so you should be quite impressed with yourself and your accomplishment. If you also have a shower enclosure to install, we have another guide on the process that you can read. 

Further Reading: Guide for Fitting Shower Enclosure 

What is an easy plumb shower tray?

Easy plumb shower trays have been designed to help with common plumbing problems when fitting shower trays and enclosures.

Easy plumb trays come with adjustable legs and removable side panels which makes pipework easier to run, and provides easier access below the shower tray.

How Deep Should a Shower Tray be?

The depth of your shower tray will vary depending on the type, shape, and material that it has been made from. When looking at low-profile trays, the total depth doesn’t matter as much because it doesn’t need to be placed on legs when it is installed.

Generally speaking, you will find that the depth ranges from 25mm to 40mm – although there are models out there that are deeper. When looking at how deep a shower tray should be, we have already mentioned that it doesn’t have much of an effect.

While a 25mm tray will be able to hold less water, it will still function correctly, and you won’t need to worry unless your drain becomes blocked and you have not noticed. Personally, I prefer a deeper shower tray, but that’s just my own recommendation. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has helped you to install your shower tray effectively and correctly so that you can spend time enjoying your shower instead of stressing out over where you went wrong.

The process won’t be quick, but it is also a lot simpler than you might have expected, so following this guide means that you will be able to get the installation of your shower tray just right. After all, it’s better to do something correctly the first time than have to re-do it later.

What did you think of our guide to installing a shower tray? Did it hit all the right marks, or are there areas where you thought it fell short? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below. 

You don’t need a lot of money to redo your bathroom and give it a whole new vibe. That may sound surprising, and potentially unrealistic, but it really isn’t.

Your shower is included in this list, and there is quite a bit you can do in order to bring your shower into the modern age or just get it to blend in with your new décor.

So, before you decide to throw it all out and spend a fortune on a new set, take a moment to sit back and read through our eight key pieces of advice for giving your shower an instant makeover, all on a budget, all DIY, and all with the aim to answer your biggest question; how can I redo my bathroom for cheap? 

1. Paint Your Tiles

This might seem a little odd at first, but it can actually be the defining feature of your bathroom, as well as an incredibly affordable way to mix things up a little.

Retiling your shower can be really expensive after all, not to mention that it takes up quite a bit of time and resources.

All you need for painting your shower tiles is your bathroom tile paint of choice, primer, and some paintbrushes. You can paint the tiles one colour, or if you are feeling more artistic, you can even create new patterns and imagery that will bring the whole room to life.

There are some really beautiful things you can do with your bathroom tiles, so why not take this opportunity to experiment a little? If you have a few tiles left over in storage, you can even use them to practice on.

2. Get Yourself a Shower Caddy 

Having all of your toiletries, facecloths, and other bathing accessories sat on the side of the bath on sprawled on the shower floor is quite unsightly, and it can also lead to grime and scum collecting much faster than normal.

If you pick up a shower caddy, you will have a safe and tidy place to store everything you need when you step into the shower, and it will be available at an accessible height. 

There are loads of different styles available on the market as well, so you are sure to find one that suits your current décor perfectly.

3. A New Shower Screen 

This doesn’t necessarily mean that you are going to need a new shower screen, but instead that you can get your current one looking brand new with very minimal effort. Over time, your screen might become a little cloudy, or it may even get so bad you can hardly see through it.

The solution? Some good old-fashioned baking soda. If you mix the baking soda with some white vinegar, you can spray it onto the shower screen and scrub it gently with a damp soft cloth.

After scrubbing, rinse it with warm water and repeat until the cloudiness is gone and you are left with lovely clear glass.

It’s a very simple solution that delivers some fantastic results. There may come a time when your screen or enclosure will need to be replaced though, and if you notice that it is splintering, then you need to buy a new one.

This is for your safety as well as for hygiene reasons. A new screen or enclosure can be very inexpensive, and they also tend to be easy to install alone or with another person.

4. Replace the Shower Head 

A new showerhead can breathe life into a bathroom that is starting to look weary and old, and you can pick them up for incredibly low prices.

On top of that, replacing a showerhead yourself is incredibly quick and easy, and we even have a guide on it that you can read through if you want some further advice. To give you a rough idea of what the process involves though, we have a quick run-down for you below:

On top of that, we also have a detailed buyer guide for a variety of showerheads if you aren’t entirely sure which one you want to invest in. 

5. Kill the Mould 

There is no shame in having a little mould in your bathroom, it is something that has happened to us all and no doubt will again – especially during the winter months where ventilation tends to be more restricted.

Getting rid of any mould in your bathroom is the first step to improving its overall feel and appearance though, and we have a few tips to get the job done effectively.

If the mould is on the paintwork, you can try washing it with a very diluted bleach solution as this will kill the mould.

However, it could cause the paint to fade, and there is no guarantee it won’t come back. The best thing you can do is actually remove the paint with a scraper, use some mould treatment on the area, and then repaint with some kitchen and bathroom paint, or one that has been designed to prevent mould.

If the mould is on your tiles, it can be washed off effortlessly with soapy water. If the mould is actually on the sealant in your shower the most effective course of action would be to remove and replace it.

It’s the ideal option for your health, and to prevent regrowth as you can invest in a dehumidifier to try and stop mould and mildew from forming in your bathroom in the future.

Further Reading: How to Remove Mould from Shower

6. Cover and Re-Surface Instead of Replace 

The concept of not fixing things if they aren’t broken comes to mind here, and it really is true. We throw so much away just because it is looking a little rough, when all it actually needs is a little love and maintenance so that it can get back to looking amazing. Are your cabinets looking a little worse for wear?

Why not paint them so that they have a more rustic appearance, or give them a coat of white paint for something fresh. Similarly, the bottom of your walls might start looking scuffed and mistreated, but the quickest way to deal with this is by using a pre-fab board known as wainscot.

If there are holes and scuffs, the board will cover things up nicely, leaving your wall looking brand new again. If your entire wall is looking a bit dinged, you can even get some wainscot that will extend to the very top.

The most important thing to remember with this DIY fix is that if you’re bathroom furniture just needs a little love; it is worth repairing it rather than replacing it. Not only will it save you a lot of money, but you can actually create a very stylish bathroom as a result.

7. Search for Low-Cost Substitutes 

Price isn’t everything, and you will actually be surprised by how good the stuff you can get for bargain prices actually is. 

A lot of this is because the quality of the cheaper items is actually improving, especially when it comes to vinyl flooring – which looks and feels more realistic than ever before.

So, when you are searching for tiles, wall coverings, and flooring, it is worth considering the budget options and looking through them. The same goes for the furniture and plumbing in your bathroom as well, none of this needs to be expensive.

You can buy a gorgeous budget bathroom that looks and feels just like a luxury one, and while this doesn’t necessarily relate to the DIY aspect, it is worth keeping in mind if you ever need to replace the bath, shower, or other plumbing items in the room.

8. Refinish Your Tub Instead of Replacing it 

Ok, so this is a big one because when the bath starts to look a little sad many of us (myself included) are guilty of replacing it instead of taking the time to see if simply refinishing it will help.

A lot of the cosmetic issues with your bathtub, or even your shower, can be fixed by simply taking the time to refinish it – and this includes things like cracks, little chips, and yellow staining that has occurred over time.

You also have the option to line your bathtub or shower instead, as this will provide it with some much-needed protection. However, it should be noted that liners will need to be installed by a professional, and they are a lot more expensive than refinishing the tub.

While the liners will last you a few years before they need replacing, we guarantee they won’t look as good as a refinishing.

Bonus Tips

While we have already gone through our eight DIY tips for making over your shower, we would also like to offer you a few bonus pieces of advice before you embark on your next renovation adventure.

After all, when you are creating your dream bathroom is there such a thing as too many tips? We think not, so take a moment to flick through the following headings for some more inspiration. 

Replace Shower Door Rollers 

Over time, your shower door rollers will become loose, they might get damaged, or the doors just won’t be opening as smoothly as they used to. When this happens, the best move you can make is replacing them with a new set.

You can buy them pretty much anywhere, but it is always best to go with ones that have been manufactured by the same company that made your shower because they will fit better and are often easier to install.

They also tend to be very affordable, so you don’t have to worry about breaking the bank when the time comes to get new ones. 

Remove Old Silicone 

We briefly mentioned that removing silicone that has mould on it is an important step to take, but old silicone, in general, should also be removed. This is because over time it may become loose and start to lose its watertight properties, allowing moisture to seep through.

Additionally, there is also the risk of it becoming stained and discoloured, taking away from the overall look and feel of your bathroom. Replacing it with new silicone is really good for the aesthetics, but also more hygienic and better for the longevity and protection of your walls. 

Also Read: Tips for Replacing Tile Grout

Lighting

Updating the lighting in your bathroom can have a big impact as well, especially in terms of the atmosphere. Bulbs that are too bright can take away from the calming atmosphere when you are having a bath or shower, so a medium glow is often the best choice to make.

Consider investing in some new fixtures that go with the décor, or taking a moment to really scrub the ones that already exist – you’d be surprised how much dirt and dust they are able to collect.

Small and simple things like this can make a noticeable difference to the appearance and vibe your bathroom provides. 

Can a fiberglass shower be painted?

Instead of replacing the entire shower, you can bring new life to it by painting the fiberglass. Use enamel paint, which is waterproof and stands up well to the moist conditions in the shower. Enamel paint comes in many colors and can be matched to your current bathroom decor.

To Conclude 

We hope that these DIY tips and tricks (as well as our little bits of bonus advice) have helped you to get a better understanding of the ways in which you can completely change the way your shower looks without spending a fortune.

Even a fresh coat of paint can be enough to brighten up your space and give your bathroom a new lease on life. A lot of your shower room makeover is down to general care and maintenance as well, with touch-ups and refreshing instead of all-out replacement.

What did you think of our guide to redecorating your shower room? Has it been everything you needed in order to inspire you, or are there things you felt were lacking and needed a little improvement? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave a message in the comments below. 

As long as you take your time, read through the instructions carefully, and follow each of the listed steps you’ll be just fine. 

We’re here to make things easier for you, which is why we have taken the time to compile this guide full of useful advice and information, as well as the steps towards successful installation. 

What is a Shower Tray Riser Kit? 

The shower tray riser kit is also known as an adjustable shower, and it consists of a set of legs and a panel that allow you to keep the tray elevated. 

The reason for this is that it makes it much easier to access the waste – especially if you are placing the shower on a concrete floor where a hatch cannot be cut for the waste to go into.

This does mean that you will end up with a shower tray that will be taller, and therefore require you to step up when you go to get into it.

The additional space for the waste is exceptionally handy, however, and does help to keep things tidy; as well as minimalize the amount of work needed.

Also Read: How to Fit a Shower Screen

What Does a Shower Tray Riser Kit Do? 

This is covered quite well in the previous section, as the shower tray riser kit essentially allows for easy waste access. It also means that you don’t need to cut a hole into the floor in order to install it, which is great for a number of homes and floor types.

Other than the floor being higher than a regular shower floor, there isn’t much else that makes it different. You can purchase these kits with trays that have varying depths, allowing you to find one that meets your needs, and they are really easy to find.

What Type of Shower Tray are You Installing? 

A lot of the installation method comes from the type of shower tray you are installing. In this guide, we are looking at the adjustable variety. These are the easiest to install, and the most popular in homes as a result.

They are quite handy to have, and they do help to make life a lot easier; as long as you are able to get over the step. The other type is a standard flat, or profile, shower tray.

These need more work and materials to install, but they certainly tend to look a lot tidier, and they sit flat on the ground, so there is no need to worry about the step.

We have a great installation guide for these types of shower floor that you can flick through if this is the type you are planning on picking up. 

The Tools You Will Need 

First things first, you need your tools and materials before you can get started with the actual installation. To make things easy for you, here is a list of what you will need: Screwdriver, Spirit level, Shower tray, Shower tray waste, Silicone sealant.

Further Reading: Best Shower Tray Guides

How to Install a Height Adjustable Shower Tray 

Now that you have all of your tools together you can work on the installation. Before we get started though, there are a few things to keep in mind.

The first is that while these instructions cover pretty much every adjustable shower tray, there are some cases where you will need to follow different instructions.

This is why you should always read the manufacturer’s guide before you get started. Additionally, it is often worth getting someone to help you out with these types of shower tray so that you can avoid dragging the legs across the floor (something which can damage them).

You should also remember that there is no shame in calling the experts if you end up getting stuck – there is nothing worse than an incorrectly installed shower tray because of the damage it can cause. Now that’s out of the way, here are the installation steps:

#1 The first thing you should do is place the tray in your desired location so that you can ensure it fits correctly and can be there without issue. 

Once that is confirmed, you can fit the shower tray legs by screwing them into place. At this point, you can adjust the height according to the level that you require. Then, take a moment to check the shower tray waste fits and is lined up correctly. 

#2 Establish the best route for your wastepipe and where it will be placed during and after the installation. Once you have done this, attach the waste to your tray and then connect it to the trap. 

#3 Now, take the spirit level and ensure that the tray is completely flat and level. This is incredibly important because a shower tray that is not level can lead to a number of problems later on – including potential leaking and water damage to your flooring. 

#4 With everything level and sturdy, you can attach the underside of the waste to the water outlet pipe. Ensure the seal is watertight to prevent any leaking once the shower is fully operational. 

You can test this by taking a jug of water and slowly pouring it down the shower drain to test for gaps and leaks in the system. 

#5 If your shower tray has side panels, this is the time to get them up and fixed in place so that it looks neat and tidy. 

Following this, take the silicone and apply it to the edges of the shower tray. This not only creates a waterproof seal that prevents leaking, it also gives the tray a really nice finish. 

To Conclude

We hope that this guide has been able to help you achieve complete success when installing your adjustable shower tray, so that you can get to enjoying your shower quickly.

With a detailed list of the tools you will need to get the job done, as well as an extensive list of steps so that you can get a clear image of what you need to do, we are sure this will be an absolute breeze for you. If I can do it with no previous experience, you certainly can too.

What did you think of our shower tray riser kit installation guide? Did it meet your expectations, or are there a few areas where you felt it fell short? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below. 

There is little more annoying than limescale, and it really does occur everywhere there is water. From your kettle and kitchen taps to the shower head, you are sure to find at least a little bit of scale lurking there.

What is Limescale and What Causes Limescale? 

Limescale is that horrible flaky stuff you find in your kettle water, or the annoying substance that seems to be growing constantly on your shower head and taps. It can even end up staining your surfaces if left for prolonged periods of time.

Limescale only really appears in hard water areas (which is most of the UK), and it is actually a deposit of calcium carbonate. What’s hard water though? Well, this water contains a higher concentration of minerals like calcium and magnesium; all of which has been fully dissolved.

When the water is left behind and evaporates, it leaves these little deposits behind, and they eventually grow into larger ones – creating limescale and scum. Usually, you can find limescale anywhere there is water, with the most common rooms being the kitchen and bathroom.

You may also find limescale in the boiler though, as well as any general surface where water has evaporated. What are the issues with limescale in your home though? We have compiled a handy list below to show you the problems it causes:

Top Tips To Descale A Shower Head

Cleaning your shower heads and getting rid of limescale doesn’t have to be a difficult process, and we have three key pieces of advice to help you get your shower head back to looking brand new and fabulous. Follow these, and your shower head will thank you for it. 

Method 1: Vinegar 

This is usually the most popular technique to descale a shower head, partly because white vinegar has antibacterial properties and works as an amazing disinfectant.

However, remember to only use white (also known as distilled) vinegar because brown often stains, and malt is less effective. We have two main techniques; one for handheld shower heads, and one for mounted models. 

Handheld

What you’ll need:

• A bucket or basin
• White vinegar
• An old toothbrush
• A soft cloth
• A wrench and rag (if stuck)

Step One: Remove the shower head. Usually, you can unscrew it, but if it is a tough one you can place an old rag around the joint and use a wrench to loosen it.

Step Two: Place the shower head in the bucket or basin and fill it with white vinegar. Then, leave it to soak for a minimum of 30 minutes (although an hour tends to work best).

Step Three: Remove the shower head from the bucket and rinse it with water to get rid of loose limescale.

Step Four: Using an old toothbrush, remove the rest of the remaining limescale, with special attention focused on the nozzles to ensure they are clear. Then, rinse with water again and polish the shower head with a soft cloth.

Step Five: If the process does not need to be repeated, reattach the shower head and use it as normal.  

Further Reading: How to Choose and Fit Shower Wall Panels

Fixed/Mounted Shower Heads:

What you’ll need:

• A plastic bag
• String to secure it
• White vinegar
• A soft cloth
• An old toothbrush

Step One: Take the plastic bag and fill it partway with vinegar, being careful not to fill it up past halfway so that it can be lifted easily.

Step Two: Hold the bag under the fixed shower head and raise it until it is immersed in the vinegar. Then, holding the bag tightly over the shower head, secure it in place using the string. Check it will not fall, and then step back.

Step Three: If the limescale is moderate, leave it to soak for 30 minutes. If it is severe, leave it to soak overnight.

Step Four: Once time has passed, remove the bag from the fixed shower head and empty the vinegar. Then, switch the water on so that it can rinse away any remaining limescale.

Step Five: Scrub the head using an old toothbrush to get any limescale out of the nozzles, before switching the water on again to flush it out. Polish with a soft cloth. If you need to, the process can be repeated.

Things to Remember

• If your shower head is made from brass, do not leave it to soak in vinegar for more than 30 minutes as it could lead to discolouration.
• The soaking method for fixed shower heads works best on chrome, stainless steel, and other forms of metal.
• You can use vinegar on bath and sink taps as well to get rid of limescale and grime. It’s very effective.
• If you mix a little lemon in with the vinegar, it will reduce the odour without altering the effects of the solution.

Method 2: Specialist Limescale Cleaner 

Sometimes we need something with additional power to get rid of limescale, and sometimes we just don’t have the desire to whip up a batch of natural cleaner.

Your supermarket will tend to stock a wide range of specialist limescale cleaners that will be able to get your fixed shower head looking fantastic and releasing a steady stream of water. Just make sure that when you descale your shower head using these cleaners, you don’t get any on your clothes or in your eyes. 

Method 3: Prevention 

Ideally, you will want to prevent limescale from building up on your shower head in the first place, and while regularly descaling your shower head is a great option, there is an even better one.

You can actually purchase a shower head that has anti-scale nozzles, preventing the limescale from collecting and keeping them clear. All you need to do to clean them is rub the nozzles gently with your finger – it’s that simple. 

Also Read: How to Fit a Shower Tray Riser Kit

A Few Top Products 

In this section, we have collected a few of our top picks for specialist products that will help to remove limescale from your shower head. Hopefully, at least one of them is able to meet your requirements. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has helped you learn more about the ways in which descaling your shower head can benefit you, but also some of the methods you can use to really get things clean. After all, you deserve to be washing somewhere that is pristine as opposed to dirty.

Plus, the product selection we have gathered is a great way to get rid of massive limescale build-ups that natural methods simply can’t fix.

What did you think of our descaling shower heads guide? Are you currently having the shower of your life, or did our tips fall short? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below. 

flexoffers

Is your shower lacking enough power to give you the best possible washing experience? Are you getting ready to install a new shower in your bathroom? Do you want to save money and do the job yourself?

Once the shower pump installation is complete, showering will become a whole new experience, and a pretty euphoric one at that. Get your toolkit and a notebook; you are ready to learn how to install a shower pump (UK edition).  

How Long Should a Shower Pump Last?  

Shower pumps are small machines that are designed to boost water flow to your shower. There are various kinds of showers and shower heads out there, which means that they each require different bar pressures and pumps. 

Bar pressure is the pressure required for the shower to function at maximum capacity, and there are pumps for every bar pressure. 

If properly installed and taken care of, shower pumps last for around eight years on average. Higher quality pumps may last up to double that amount of time with proper care and maintenance. 

Can You Fit a Shower Pump to a Combi Boiler? 

A combi boiler is a water heater and central heating boiler in one unit. Combi boilers are excellent ways to conserve space in a home, but the lack of a separate hot water cylinder means that you cannot be installing a shower pump to this system. 

There are alternative cold-water mains boosters available for those who have combi boilers. Shower pumps are specifically designed for use in open vented hot and cold systems. 

What’s the Difference Between Negative and Positive Shower Pumps?

Before you purchase a shower pump, you need to check what kind of set-up you have or want to install. If your shower head is below your cold-water tank and the flow rate at 0.6 litres a minute, then you need a positive shower pump.

Positive shower pumps use gravity to allow the water to flow downwards. If your shower head is level with or above your cold-water tank, then a negative shower pump will be required.

Negative shower pumps have a pressure switch that recognizes when the shower is on even if the water is not flowing. 

If you are unsure which type of shower pump to purchase, a negative shower pump works with both a positive and negative installation. 

Why Do I Need a Shower Pump?  

Shower pumps are designed to improve the water pressure within your shower. Increasing the water pressure improves a shower’s performance, which can mean a more luxurious showering experience.

A higher-pressure shower can be more rejuvenating and be a more efficient system overall – even going so far as to save a little on your water bills.  

Things to Consider 

Before ordering your shower pump, there are a few things to consider to ensure you get the best one for you; 

Once you have the information to these questions, you will know which shower pump is right for your needs.  

Preparation Before Installing A Shower Pump 

Now that you have your shower pump, it is time to get your toolkit and begin transforming your shower. Before you begin, make sure that there is a minimum height of 10 inches or 250mm between the water level in the cold-water tank and the shower rose.

Anything less and it may not be possible to get the 0.5 litres a minute flow that activates many shower pumps. Also, ensure that the cold-water header tank has a capacity of at least 225 litres or 50 gallons to maintain supply to your shower pump and the hot water cylinder. 

How to Fit a Shower Pump 

#1 When planning where to place the shower pump, make sure you put it in an easy to access spot. This will make maintenance and cleaning easier in the future. Ensure that the pump will not be covered to prevent the motor from overheating and getting damaged.  

Being placed in a low-temperature environment that has a frost risk will damage the shower pump, so make sure you choose a warm and dry place.

Safety and following regulations are important; the shower pump must be at least 2 feet or 600mm away from the shower tray or basin. Examples of good places are lofts, airing cupboards, under baths, and above cylinders 

#2 Once you have chosen where to install your shower pump, you can connect it to the house’s electrical supply using a 230v switched spur off a ring main. Do not connect it to the supply for the hot water cylinder heater or anything else that needs a dedicated supply of energy.

If you want to avoid a noisy shower pump, sit it on a 2 inch or 50mm thick concrete block or foundation. Do not screw the shower pump into the floor. 

Also Read: What is a Thermostatic Shower

#3 Fitting a 22mm full bore isolating valve onto the cold-water supply pump will allow you to isolate the water supply to and from the pump. The size of the pipework should be around 22mm to reduce flow resistance regardless of whether there are 22mm or 15mm connections. 

#4 To seal the pump and prevent air ventilation, have a Surrey flange fitted to the top of the hot water cylinder for 15mm connections and an Essex flange fitted for 22mm connections. 

#5 To prevent damage to the pump itself and reduce noise, use the flexible hoses to link to both the incoming and outgoing delivery pipes. 

#6 Properly flush the pipework before connection to the pump to avoid debris damaging it. 

#7 Once the shower pump is installed, switch off the electrical supply and run a bucket of water out of both the hot and cold sides. Once the water runs clear, the shower pump will be primed and ready. Doing this stops air from getting trapped and preventing proper operation. 

#8 Take note of when cleaning and maintenance should be carried out. Put it on your calendar or in your diary so that you don’t forget.  

#9 Turn on the power supply and enjoy your newly improved shower. 

Further Reading: Shower Pump Problems

How to Fit A Shower Pump Under A Bath? 

It is possible to fit a shower pump under a bath; however proper protocol must be followed. Ensure that the pump is 2 feet from the shower basin or tray.

If you need to access the pump after installation, a tool must be used to open the bath enclosure. The pump must not be covered or in a cold environment, as stated above, and should be as easy as possible to access. 

How to Fit A Shower Pump Above Cylinder? 

If you cannot have a raised cold-water storage tank in the loft, you can fit the shower pump above the cylinder but below the ceiling.  

Make sure you have around 225 litres or 50 gallons of cold water for the shower. Then use the separate connection that is not restricted to ensure that little air can get into the pump impellors. Use a dedicated flange and make an anti-gravity loop.

An anti-gravity loop is a pipe that bends towards the floor by a minimum of 350mm in 15mm.  

Fit the full-bore isolation valves to the cylinder’s hot outlet either before or after making the loop. Flush the pipework before connecting the pump and connect the hot supply pipe to the inlet of the pump.

If the pump is not in the hot water cylinder cupboard, then you will have to fit another full-bore isolation valve just prior to the pump. Now prime the pump and follow the instructions in the installation section to finish. 

Where should a shower pump be located?

If there is, you need a positive head system, which generally requires a minimum inlet pressure of 0.2 bar.

It is best if you can place your shower pump close to the hot and cold water storage tanks. At the same time, however, shower pumps should also be easily accessible for maintenance.

To Conclude  

Hopefully, you feel more confident in knowing how to install a shower pump yourself. Not only do you know your negative shower pumps from your positive ones, but you also know the ins and outs of how they work. 

As always, if you have any concerns or get stuck, then we advise that you should seek professional help from a local handyman. Following this guide and asking advice from professionals will ultimately lead to the perfect shower experience; it’s all worth it in the end. 

What did you think of this shower pump guide? Did it help you succeed in installing your new shower pump? Do you have any questions or tips for other DIY fans? We always enjoy hearing from you, so let us know your thoughts in the comments below. 

There is nothing worse than mould in your shower, and as someone who has lived in homes with poor ventilation in the bathroom, I have a personal vendetta against it.

However, it doesn’t have to be like that, and this is why we have created this epic how-to guide for ridding your shower from mould – including the silicone and the grout. It’s time to say farewell to your mould crisis and hello to a fresh-looking shower. 

How to Remove Mould from the Drain and Walls 

The shower drain tends to be the main place that mould gathers, but you may also find that it creeps up on your shower wall or shower tiles. It might seem frustrating, and maybe even a little daunting, at first, but the way to get rid of it is actually pretty simple.

However, since we are using a lot of bleach here (and throughout the guide), please remember to wear gloves and old clothes (if it splashes, it will leave discoloured spots) while ridding the shower of mould. 

#1 Mix up a bleach and water solution, and make sure there is more water than bleach. Although not too much, because you want it to be relatively strong. Then, pour it into an empty spray bottle.

#2 Spray the solution around the drain and on top of the mould before leaving it to sit for around 10 minutes.

#3 Take a coarse brush and start to scrub the mould away. Hopefully, it will have started to fade a little beforehand to make the job a bit easier on you. For the really tight spots, you might need an old toothbrush or something similar so that you can reach. 

#4 Rinse the solution and mould away, and you will be left with a sparkling drain. You can use this same method for your tiles and shower walls as well. Just make sure the bleach solution isn’t too strong if you are using it on walls. 

How to Remove Mould from Shower Grout 

This is the first place you will find mould growing because it is porous and holds water for much longer. This method of mould removal uses bleach, so if you have coloured grout, it would be best to use one of the natural methods that we go through later on.

#1 Mix up another batch of the bleach solution (one part bleach, two water) and pour it into the spray bottle.

#2 Spray the mixture onto the affected grout all over the shower. 

#3 Using a brush, preferably nylon, scrub the grout and get the mould off. 

#4 Rinse the grout, and watch the mould and dirty water wash away, leaving everything looking clean and new. 

How to Remove Mould from Shower Silicone 

When trying to remove mould from shower silicone, the process can be a little difficult because of the way the silicone dries and its positioning. So, we have a quick list of things you are going to need before you start our tried and tested method:

#1 Spoon some baking soda into the bowl and slowly pour in the bleach, mixing it until you get a paste-like consistency.

#2 Take the paintbrush and use it to apply the paste to the mould on the silicone. You can also use rubber gloves if you don’t have a brush to hand. 

#3 Do your best to cover the paste on the silicone with clingfilm, although this can be a bit tricky so don’t worry if it isn’t perfect. Once this is done, leave it for between one and two hours.

#4 Remove the clingfilm and clean the paste away with warm water. If the mould is gone, the job is done, but if it still remains, you will have the start the process again. 

Health Risks

Mould is really bad for your health, especially the black mould that grows in bathrooms. For those with asthma and allergies, it can cause serious breathing issues that can lead to hospitalisation if they are exposed to it for a prolonged period of time.

This is because the mould spores disrupt lung function, making it harder to breathe, as well as irritating the throat – causing coughing and shortness of breath.

Black mould is even able to cause asthma, which can be quite terrifying, and WHO has attributed a significant number of child asthma cases to exposure to black mould in damp conditions.

Even for those who are otherwise healthy, the mould exposure does increase the risk of chest and lung infections, which can cause serious illness. It’s not good for your body to breathe it in, so the best thing is to remove it as soon as possible.

This is also why ventilation is so important, and if you are not able to keep your windows open a crack in the bathroom, or you don’t have any windows in the room, it is worth investing in a dehumidifier.

This will suck the excess moisture from the air and help to prevent the growth of mould and mildew. 

Products: Natural DIY

You’d be surprised by how effective natural products can be when you are cleaning mould from your shower. We have a couple of top solutions that we strongly recommend you try when mould removal duty calls, and you can find them both below.

White vinegar: This amazing natural cleaner is fantastic for cleaning mould, and also acts as a disinfectant. It’s something you should always have in your cupboard for cleaning, and it can be used neat or mixed with water to create an effective spray.

Baking soda: This is also an incredibly effective method for mould removal, and after turning it into a paste with some water, just let it sit on the mould for 20 minutes before using a brush to scrub all the mould away. You can also mix it with white vinegar for something a little stronger.

Borax: Mixing this with a large amount of water is a cheap and easy way to get rid of mould naturally. All you really need to do is scrub the solution onto the area and then wipe away afterwards to get rid of the mould. It’s very effective on tiles and grout.

Clear ammonia: This can be sprayed onto the mould and then left to sit for a couple of hours. Afterwards, it just needs to be wiped away. Remember to only ever use clear ammonia, and to never mix it with bleach as the fumes are toxic.

Hydrogen peroxide: Again, this is a spray, leave for a few hours, and wipe away solution. You should use 3% hydrogen peroxide, and it can be mixed with white vinegar for an extra kick when tackling serious mould on your shower walls.

Further Reading:
How to Descale Your Shower 

If you don’t fancy making natural remedies at home, there are quite a few that you can find on the web, each of which contain natural ingredients and no harmful chemicals. We have two of our favourites below for you to take a quick look at. 

Products: Shop Bought 

There are times when mould situations call for something more powerful than the natural solutions, and it is in these cases where the shop bought chemical cleaners are most effective. There are loads of them on the market, leaving you spoilt for choice when finding the one that works best for you and your situation.

We have been through a number of ways in which chemicals such as bleach can be helpful when the mould is really tough to get rid of. Below, you will find two of our top picks for your consideration. 

How to Clean a Shower Curtain 

How do you remove mould from the shower curtain though? While they can be incredibly cute (I have a small collection of printed shower curtains), they can also be massive mould traps that need some serious cleaning and maintenance to prevent them from getting ruined and smelling.

However, the process of removing mould is not necessarily a hard one, and we have two excellent methods for getting the job done. The first of these is by using a baking soda and vinegar solution to remove the mould in question, the steps for which are below:

#1 Remove the shower curtain from the shower.

#2 Place it in the washing machine with a couple of bath towels (these prevent creasing and act like sponges for scrubbing the curtain).

#3 Add half a cup of baking soda alongside your usual washing tablets and start the cycle.

#4 Once it reaches the rinse stage, stop the machine and add half a cup of white wine vinegar and then allow the cycle to finish.

#5 Remove the curtain from the machine and hang it out to dry. The mould should be gone. If not, you can repeat the process a couple of times.

You may find that the baking soda and vinegar method isn’t quite enough though, and in cases like this, you can try our next method. This one uses bleach, which means it is a lot more powerful and so likely to be effective on curtains that are severely mouldy. Here are the steps for you:

#1 Place the curtain in your washing machine with some bath towels, for the same reason as the first method.

#2 In a basin or bucket, mix a solution of a half cup of bleach and a quarter cup of your regular laundry soap. Then, fill the rest with water. Put it to the side, and move onto the next step.

#3 Start the wash cycle, and once the machine has filled with water, you can add the bleach solution. The reason this is done is so that your towels don’t get ruined by the bleach.

#4 Once it has finished washing, hang it out to dry, and the mould should be gone.

Further Reading: Old Shower DIY Makeover

It should be noted that for really bad mould growth you may need to wash it twice this way for the mould to go. If it still remains after two washes with a bleach solution, lay the curtain on a flat surface and scrub it off by hand.

Should this fail, you may be better off purchasing a new curtain and throwing the mouldy one away. You can look at the next section for a few ideas. 

Anti-Mould Shower Curtains and Mats 

Your shower curtain is naturally susceptible to collecting mould, as is the mat you use on the shower floor. While both of these should be kept clean at all times, it’s always worth investing in ones that are mould resistant so that you don’t have to worry so much about their maintenance.

To help you get an idea of the products on offer for you, we have selected our favourite shower curtain and shower mat for you to look at so that you can get some ideas. 

To Conclude

Hopefully, this guide has helped you learn all about the ways you can rid your bathroom from mould and mildew, leaving it looking fresh and new so that you can really enjoy your bathroom again.

There are so many handy pieces of advice that you can follow, but we have also gathered some of our favourite natural and chemical products for you to look at.

This is to help you figure out which methods are going to work best for you, but also show you some of the most reliable mould killers on the market so that you can get rid of everything faster and more efficiently.

What did you think of our mould removal guide? Did it contain everything you needed to get your bathroom looking spectacular again, or are there tips you would have liked to see included here? We love hearing from you, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below. 

A bathroom can be a pretty big investment, and one that takes careful planning and consideration before the work can be carried out.

It’s something you will have to go through at least once in your home, especially when things break or become worn down past the point of repair.

Typical Bathroom Installation Costs 

Before we get into details about the specifics of bathroom redecoration, let’s take a look at some of the typical installation and labour costs, as well as the average amount of time it takes to get the work done.

As we have mentioned before, the price will likely vary a little depending on the contractor you go with, as well as the furnishings you purchase. 

Basin: the price for a new basin to be installed will usually vary between £70 and £120, and the job itself will only usually take an hour or two.

Toilet: for a new toilet to be installed, you are usually looking at £75 - £140, and this will normally take a maximum of three hours to complete.

Bath: this tends to cost quite a bit more because of the size and the additional work included, so you are looking at prices between £130 and £220 on average, with the work time being around five hours.

Shower: a standard shower is often around £100 to £120 for installation, and it tends to take around three hours to complete the work.

Also Read: Best Shower Wall Panels

Electric Shower: we get into more details about this particular type of shower later, but you should expect to spend between £100 and £150 on the plumber and the same on the electrician, with each spending around two or three hours on their respective tasks.

Shower Enclosure: if you are wondering how much to fit a shower enclosure, you can expect to pay between £150 and £250 for the labour, with the work taking up to four hours to complete.

Taps: these are quite inexpensive, so they should only cost you between £50 and £80 to install, with the timeframe being around an hour.

Tiling: for tiling work, the price varies according to the size of the room and the amount of space you want to be tiled. Prices tend to be between £400 and £1000 (sometimes more) with the work taking between one and five days to complete.

Underfloor Heating: this form of heating will usually cost around £350 to £850 for installation, with the work lasting anywhere between five hours and two days; depending on the size of the job.

Extractor Fan: for these, the price is usually somewhere between £150 and £240, and the actual work process usually only lasts up to four hours.

Complete Renovation: when we refer to complete renovation, we mean every aspect of your bathroom. From ripping it all out, disposing of it safely, and putting all the new stuff in (including re-tiling) For this, you should expect to pay between £3000 and £5000, with the average job length being around 10 days.

Standard Installation: this is just for the bathroom fixtures, and it will often cost between £2000 and £2500 with an average labour period of around five days. 

DIY or Professional Bathroom Installation? 

Really, this is the first big decision you are going to need to make – do you want to do all the work yourself or hire a professional? While doing it all yourself might seem like the cheapest option, it isn’t necessarily the best, and you might find that you have bitten off more than you can chew.

Bathroom renovation often calls for a plumber, electrician, tiler, and painter. The latter two are easier to undertake yourself, but the former should be left to the experts.

Want to know some of the big advantages of hiring the professionals to do your bathroom? Take a quick peek at our top reasons below:

Of course, you always have the option to take the DIY route, but we would strongly advocate for the use of professionals when you are working on creating your dream bathroom.

Factors Affecting the Overall Cost of Bathroom Installation

While we have taken you through the majority of the individual features in the first section of this guide, there are some general factors that will affect the overall cost of your bathroom installation. 

Here, we will take you through each of them, a little more information, as well as the rough costs you can expect to incur as a result. 

Electrical Work

This particular section of electric work isn’t in reference to showers, but instead to the lighting and similar fixtures such as sockets.

Depending on the amount of electrical work you want to be done, as well as the specific pieces you would like installed, you can expect to spend an average of £300 on this. 

Flooring 

This is a big one, and the costs vary massively because it can depend on the type of flooring you choose. At present, vinyl is one of the most popular on the market, likely because it has become so much better in terms of quality in recent years.

The rough price for this is around £300 to £400 depending on the size of the bathroom, and stone or tile can easily cost double this or more. 

General Plumbing 

While we looked at individual plumbing tasks, there may be other work that needs to be carried out, including alterations to the existing pipework layout. For extras such as this, you could end up forking out around £700 for the work, possibly even more if it is extensive. 

Bathroom Suite 

These are quite good little bundles because they come with everything included. When you pick these up, you should take the time to find a contractor that is reliable and trustworthy because they also tend to be quite expensive to buy.

Usually, the installation cost for these is around £1000 for a standard (and that includes all installation work), although budget suites tend to be a little less, and the luxury ones a little more. 

Old Bathroom Removal and Waste 

This is a really important aspect of the process to remember, because the removal of your old fixtures and any waste that comes with it needs to be removed in a professional and legal manner.

The company you hire will be able to dispose of it for you, but you should be warned that they have to pay business rates and so it will often turn out to be quite a substantial additional fee. Although, some companies will include the cost of removal in their quote, so make sure to confirm that first.

If you only have a small amount of waste, you could hire a skip and arrange the disposal of the waste yourself, but this can be a lot of hassle, and it will still cost you money to get the work done – just possibly not as much as the contractor you hired would charge.

Going with the professionals does mean you know that everything is being disposed of correctly, and you don’t have the additional stress of trying to throw it all away yourself. 

Straight Swap or a Whole New Installation? 

This refers to electric showers and the two types of installation that can be undertaken. The straight swap is where you take an old electric shower unit out and replace it with a new one. It requires minimal work, and is a relatively easy process.

The whole new installation is when you are installing an electric shower unit for the first time, and this means that a lot of new work has to be done on the area, and new electric cables wired up and linked to the bathroom.

This will require the electrician to do a lot more, and the job will likely take longer as a result. It is not uncommon for brand new installations to take around two days. 

Further Reading:
Fitting Shower Tray DIY Guide

Choosing the Right Unit 

You need to make sure that you choose the right unit for your needs and your home, especially as there are actually a few different types you might not have been aware of. A lot of it comes down to how your water is supplied – gravity fed, mains supply, or combi boiler.

All you need to do is check the requirements and specifications on your chosen power shower to make sure that they match the water supply so that you know they are compatible. It only takes a moment, and it tends to be clearly listed information. 

Do I Need a Plumber and an Electrician?

The short answer is, possibly. Your best bet if you want to save a decent amount of money is to hire an electrician that is also a plumber (or vice versa). 

This means that only one person needs to do the work, and you don’t have to worry about calling two separate ones out so that you can use your shower.

It is usually a simpler job if you are just replacing an old shower unit with a new one, and in these cases, you will find that the electrician will either charge a lot less, or the plumber will be able to do it themselves as they tend to be trained to perform basic electrical work for straight up shower swaps.

If you are performing a whole new installation, the work is increased, and the electrician must be there to ensure safe set-up, especially as new cables need to be run and linked up to your fuse box. 

Extra Costs 

With your electric shower, there are a few additional costs that you need to consider before you book the work. They are as follows:

To Conclude

We hope that this has given you a clear idea of how much your new shower room will cost, as well as some insight into the options available to you with regards to hiring a professional or undertaking the task yourself.

While there are some aspects we would strongly recommend leaving to the experts, there is also quite a bit that you can do yourself – and we have plenty of guides to help you figure things out.

What did you think of our shower room pricing guide? Are our estimates on point, or do you think they are off the mark? We love hearing from you and would like to know more about your recent bathroom renovations, so feel free to leave us a message in the comments below.